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 ADVANCED
Staunton Rocks

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Back 40, The 
Bombardier Dome 
Dungeon, The 
Marmot Tower 
Meadow Dome 
Park View Dome 
Ranch Hand, The 
Whistle Pig, The 

Staunton Rocks  


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Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 39.5165, -105.3978 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 71,655
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013
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New Wag Bag Dispenser at Staunton Rocks. Courtesy ...

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Description 

Staunton Rocks is the first established climbing area visitors come to after leaving the trailhead. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.

Getting There 

From the trailhead off of Upper Elk Creek Rd., hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. The trail at this point is a service road, and the Climber Access trail is an old two track. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.1 miles from here

55 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',7],['5.8',8],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',7],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Staunton Rocks:
Maybe the Marmot Ate Your Baby   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Marmot Tower
Chicken Dance   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 270'   Park View Dome
The Voodoo That You Do   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Meadow Dome : The Labyrinth
Coleman Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   Meadow Dome : The Cascades Wall
Harvey   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Meadow Dome : Permission Wall
Solar Ridge   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 335'   Meadow Dome : The Cascades Wall
Cave of Eternal Stench   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Meadow Dome : The Labyrinth
Ginger Snap   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Reef On It!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
The Uncertainty Principle    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Dungeon
Elwood P. Dowd   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Meadow Dome : Permission Wall
80 Grit   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
No Rain   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
The Babe With Power   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Meadow Dome : The Labyrinth
The Opportunist   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
No Opportunity Missed   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Ddong Chim!   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
New Beginnings    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Dungeon
Muricuh   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Welcome to Staunton   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Meadow Dome : Tan Corridor
Browse More Classics in Staunton Rocks

Featured Route For Staunton Rocks
On the FA of "Reef On It!"

Reef On It! 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Tan Corridor
Begin at a block that doesn't appear to be very attached to the wall. Don't be afraid to reef on it though, the block has proven to be quite solid. Make bouldery moves up to a good jug, and get your first clip. Some may appreciate a stick clip, but the route has been climbed numerous times without one. Continue up slightly slabby terrain for two more clips then tackle the gently overhanging headwall. Move through the crux pulling on good jugs until the angle lessens once again and you find yours...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Staunton Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Staunton Rocks from the western end of the climbing access trail.
Staunton Rocks from the western end of the climbin...
Staunton Rocks.
BETA PHOTO: Staunton Rocks.
Staunton Rocks overview. Courtesy of Fixed Pin Publishing.
BETA PHOTO: Staunton Rocks overview. Courtesy of Fixed Pin Pub...
Approach to Climbers Access trail, after you leave double track part where the vehicle turn around terminates.   When you hit the first large rock outcropping, go right.  It goes behind the stump in the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Approach to Climbers Access trail, after you leave...

Comments on Staunton Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin the Wann
Mar 28, 2013
Can't wait to climb there, having grown up just down the road in Indian Hills. Is there somewhere I can find more info until it opens?
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Apr 21, 2013
Check out the Fixed Pin Guide to Staunton State Park. It's a good guide to the routes that were established in 2012 at Staunton Rocks.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Aug 26, 2013
Very nice state park and great work being done in here. We recently visited for the first time and only explored a portion of the area, but we saw lots of great routes and lots of potential. Trails are in good shape in most areas. Be aware it is over 2 miles for the approach with lots of bike, kid, and doggy dodging :) Thanks to all who did and continue to develop this area - well done.