Station to Station  5.9

259 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet FA:  Neri and Kimball 1975 Submitted By:  Ken Heiser on Aug 8, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Fun.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start this route from a pointed boulder 20 feet to the left of the finger crack of "Women and Children First" which is just to the left of the "Backbone Arete".

P1 5.9s Step off the point boulder and do a difficult mantle onto the dike. A good spot can help. This crux has no pro and although close to the ground a fall would be nasty onto the pointed boulder. Traverse up and right to the crack (first pro). Follow the crack for about 25 feet. Strike out up the face aiming for the flake above again with no pro (runout 5.6). Follow the flake around and up 5.8 (some okay pro). At the end of the flake, place a last piece, and head up the face 5.8+ with no pro aiming for a flake with rap slings. Continue past this flake to lower angle rock and a belay at the top of the "Hand Jive" dihedral. ~175'.

P2 5.8 Continue up the short RF dihedral, around to the right and up the easy face to the summit. ~120'

This route is a sentimental favorite of mine as I first did it my first year of climbing in 1978. Super nice rock with knobs and crystals. The best pro on the first pitch is your ability not to fall off as you seldom will be doing any sort of hard move near a piece. Have fun :)

Protection 

A light standard trad rack with an emphasis on small gear works well on this route. Expect runout 5.7 and no pro for the crux off the ground.