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Static Cling 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dennis Luther, Kevin Boyle, Jay Kullman June 30, 2000
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2010
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fun, dynamic climbing through some alarmingly hollow rock makes for quite a memorable experience. I recall the pucker effect was fairly high the first time I did this route some years ago.

    Located roughly 100 feet left of the huge off-width of Phase III in an dirty alcove.

    Climb out (placing an optional small piece of gear before the first bolt can be done, though it's not necessary) of the alcove clipping bolts, and taking care to check each hold while heading left along a right-facing ramp/corner. Gain an awkward rest on a small shelf below a bizarre roof. Clip a bolt then head out over the roof, taking care NOT to pull off any of the wafer-thin flakes you're pulling on. Gain a short crack before the anchor, place a small TCU then gun it to the chains.

    Good, right?


    Location 

    100 feet left of the huge Phase III off-width corner in a dirty alcove.


    Protection 

    Bolts, and a few TCUs to fill in the gaps at the beginning and at the end.



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