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Static Cling 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lee Hansche and Lily Hallett 7/28/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,172
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 28, 2009

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matty on the "jugs" toward the top

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a type of climbing that I love. If I were to put it in a category I'd call it a super-slab. It involves hyper technical foot work and precise body position.

The route climbs to the left of the bolts on what appears at first to be a blank wall. As you look closer and spend more time on the wall very small hold start to pop out at you. Then all you have to do is string them together in a way that works for you till you stick the jug finish. Top it out or climb to the right to clip the chains.

So far everyone to try the route has figured out a unique solution to the crux, but all agree that it is a fun puzzle of a route.


Location 

The blank face between Pulse and Flatline.

Protection 

3 bolts to the same anchors as Flatline.


Photos of Static Cling Slideshow Add Photo
Lily working out the moves of our new hyper-slab r...
Lily working out the moves of our new hyper-slab r...
Keith climbing and his crew watching the show :)
Keith climbing and his crew watching the show :)
Keith clinging...
Keith clinging...

Comments on Static Cling Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 29, 2013
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 10, 2009

Lily led this today for its second lead ascent... Nice Work Lily...
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 12, 2009

Even the term 'super slab' gives me the willies. Great lead, I got slaughter on a far easier slab out at mt. oscar this past weekend.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 12, 2009

Thanks much... its a style ive had to work for but its nice that you dont have to be too strong to get good at it... Fun Balance mixed with painfully small crimps :)
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This route made be bleed a lot. Awesome weight on your feet climbing though- get psyched to bear down on razor crimps and have at it!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 12, 2011

repeated this thing today for the first time since the FA... i was happy to find it didnt feel any easier and is still enjoyable...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 12, 2012

Was that you out there today Lee? ;) I think today confirmed my love for this type of climb. Really fun route! Thanks good sir!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 12, 2012

Thanks jeffery! it was nice watching your process on this route... you really should check out sidewalk surfer if you are digging the low angles... that one is amazing IMO...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 27, 2013

Matty Zane styling the blankness
By jim.dangle
Jun 28, 2013

Lee,

Where is this "sidewalk surfer" climb you mentioned in one of the comments above? Any other recommendations on "super slabs" at Rumney?

Thanks!

Jim
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 28, 2013

Sidewalk Surfing is at Waimea just to the left of Jaws 2... I don't know any others really unless you count tales from the crimp at pulse wall but that feels a bit more like face climbing to me, worth doing though... If i find any more i will put them up for sure and let you know :) glad you appreciate this kind of climbing!
By chinos
Jun 29, 2013

Lee, I was checking this route out around the same time as you. Thanks for setting it up! Can't wait to get on it!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 29, 2013

nice! funny how that happens. I just saw a lichen covered face and figured there had to be something under there haha... tell me how it goes for you!