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Climb the thin crack system and pull up under the roof utilizing some side pulls (crux). Pull the roof (2nd crux) and continue to anchors on the right wall.
The moves are aesthetic, and you can find some great rests, a great route.
Although it certainly won't compare to longer classic routes, it is definitely one of the best on wall street.
This route is located about 50 feet right of Top Forty in a highly chalked left facing dihedral with a thin crack system, and a roof about 2/3 of the way up.
There is a chalked up flake to the left that leads to the same anchors, Potash Bong Hit, a top rope climb.
A set of camalots to a number 3, small pieces (tcu's) are helpful, and a set of nuts. Draws to extend pieces below the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Static Cling
Moving through the crux below the roof
Lisa Gillest working the thin finger lieback
Mike Keegan nearing the roof, GoPro fish eye view
|By Greg D|
Feb 10, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This is a quality climb and can be climbed in the rain (see photo) as well as Potash Bong Hit(5.9) which starts just 15 feet left and shares the same achors as Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is worth doing and protects fairly well even though some guide books call it a top rope. See Potash Bong Hit on this website for more details.
From: Chicago, IL
May 28, 2009
For me, the key gear were a #0 and #00 TCU (purple + grey). These can protect the crux moves below and through the small roof.
|By Clay Rardon|
From: Morgantown, WV
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
excellent varied climb. easy to protect. Highly Recommended for the 5.11a leader. place a directional below the roof if you're going to TR. HAVE FUN!
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 6, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Great route, not to be missed on Wall Street. Good gear, great movement.