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Stately Pleasure Dome
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Angel 
Boltway 
Death Crack 
Dixie Peach 
Eunuch 
Footnote 
Great White Book 
Hermaphrodite Flake 
Shadow Nose 
South Crack 
Sweet Nothings 
Table of Contents 
Turning Japanese 
West Country 

Stately Pleasure Dome 


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Lat, Long: 37.8353, -119.46 Map
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Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake

Description 

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.


Getting There 

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stately Pleasure Dome:
Great White Book   5.6 R     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450 feet   
West Country   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Boltway   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Hermaphrodite Flake   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
South Crack   5.8 R     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet   
Footnote   5.10c R     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140 feet   
Table of Contents   5.10d R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
Black Angel   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Browse More Classics in Stately Pleasure Dome

Featured Route For Stately Pleasure Dome
Megan leading pitch 2

West Country 5.7  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome
P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Stately Pleasure Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome

BETA PHOTO: Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome

Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake

Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake

Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985.
Photo...


Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©

BETA PHOTO: Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©

Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake.
Photo by Blitz...


Moving up the finger crack

Moving up the finger crack

Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure Dome.  <br /> <br />Looking down at Tenaya Lake 6/10/08 <br /> <br />

Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure...

Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD. <br /> <br />6/10/08

Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD.

6/...


Bath under the S. P. Dome

Bath under the S. P. Dome

stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunrise

stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunris...

Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or take pictures? <br /> <br />A: Yes <br /> <br />September 2011 <br />

Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or t...

Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)

Foolish Pleasures 5.11a (PG/R)

Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.

Stately Pleasure Dome from Tenaya Lake.

Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome. 7/2012. <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano

Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome....

Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.

Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.


Comments on Stately Pleasure Dome Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 28, 2006

The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.