choss arete - undercling on the arete is ready to ...
This area is amazing. Large boulders litter the mountain side in random and plentiful cacophony. The rock is either a nice schist or a conglomerate/dolomite and is of fairly good quality. Most of the boulders are located directly off an old logging road that intersects the AT, however some of the gems require some serious hiking/bushwhacking. This area is mind blowing, and would make a great stop on the way to the Gunks, as its only 40 miles away by car. There is simply too much rock out here for one person to get a handle on, so come on out here and put up some problems !
Things left to be desired... long drive, not too many easy problems, boulders could be a bit bigger, but as of now I hardly know whats out there. Sorry for the lame photos, and vague directions, this area and page is a work in progress, and as I only found these boulders on mothersday, I have a lot of work to do.
The trailhead is the AT trailhead on Schaghticoke Rd near Bulls Bridge in Kent, CT. Head up the AT north and up the mountain. After you cross the creek and pass a couple head high boulders on your left (4 minutes in), there is a small cairn. Here you can go off trail north towards the anvil boulder which leads you to the logging road which uncovers the majority of boulders in this area. If you choose to stay on the AT, at about 7 minutes the trail takes you through the twin boulders, which are large, slabby and featured.
To get to the Trapps area, this is where you leave the trail behind. From the uphill side of the twin boulders, at the other small cairn, head southwest along the side hill cross country for about 20 minutes, you can vaguely follow a game trail most the way, crossing a large slab/cliffband/headwall. You will find amazing roofs and overhangs in this area.
Third option, If you stay on the AT instead... a few minutes further up the hill brings you to the tooth, a highball boulder with at least 3 super classic lines on it, all unsent. There are no good boulders further up the trail from this boulder that I have found so far.
Sit start with left hand in a fingerpocket/sidepull and right hand on a good sloper with a little finger dish in it. Tough moves up over the bulge and onto the arete. Work the arete to the top. Gets dangerous fast.Look out for the gnarly white spiders !...[more]Browse More Classics in CT