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Unsorted Routes:

Starving Hippies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Roth & Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on May 4, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The route starting to the left of the red streak.

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Description 

Start below a shallow corner, staying either to the right on the face or use the large, scary flake on the left. Juggy pockets lead to a good stance followed by a thin and technical face.


Location 

This is the leftmost route on the first buttress to the left of Flesh Tuxedo.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchor.



Photos of Starving Hippies Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Earle leading Starving Hippies.
Dave Earle leading Starving Hippies.
Comments on Starving Hippies Add Comment
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By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 13, 2010

With the addition of all the new routes in the area, this one should become more popular. I admit to climbing a little right of the bolt line but the moves were very engaging.

By Mrs Cracklover
From: Denver, more or less
Jan 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

I thought this was a really nice route. Got around a height-dependent move by de-sand-ifying a teeny tiny girly mono.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 10, 2011

Bob's new guide says 5.11a. The crux move is definitely harder than that.

By lucas dietrich
Oct 29, 2013

Greetings all,

I climbed this route a few weekends back and agree that it is fun, albeit solid .11a. Other than the difficulty I was bit surprised by two things:

1. The bolt line seems to be way left of the actual line that would go in the 5.11 range.
2. The quality of the bolts and hangers, with the exception of the first recently replaced one, really left something to be desired.

I feel with the popularity of the Piggy Bank now that this line, with proper updating could be really worthwhile. I am curious if anyone knows who the original equipper is or who put up the FA? I would really like to replace the old bolts (especially the Star drive at the top) with new 1/2" stainless bolts and hangers. I also feel that if you are going to go through all the trouble to update the climb, it would also benefit from moving the bolts a few feet right to follow the actual climb in an effort to make clipping easier and falls without the additional pendulum swing. Thanks. LD

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Oct 31, 2013

Per the 2005 Knapp guide, FA: Darryl Roth & Mark Van Horn. You should be able to contact Darryl through this site.

By Darryl Roth
Nov 25, 2013

It's apparent that the original line has fallen into disuse and a more natural and easier sequence has become the accepted climb here. I've given Lucas my OK for the rebolting and would say that if the original is not what is being climbed, then it's perhaps better to rename it with a community of first ascentionists who are climbing what's natural instead of trying to squeeze every drip of hard out of the Shelf Road resource. Starving Hippies may now be an irrelevant footnote remaining in old guidebooks.