Starting from Scratch

I am going sport climbing soon and need some gear. If you were to start from scratch, what would you buy? Looking for people's favorite draws, lockers, belay device, ways to attach to top bolts or chains, etc. Most likely for single pitch but would like to get stuff that would be optimal to move towards multi (ie-a belay device like the atc guide perhaps over regular atc?)

I know, go with someone who knows and borrow what you can, but beyond that input is appreciated, thx.

• GriGri
• 14-18 quickdraws if you're heading to spots w/ 30M+ or multipitch routes, 12 is enough for smaller crags
• Rope bag
• 4 18"-24" runners w/ locking biners
• Stick clip
• 60M min. (70 is better) rope with a well-defined halfway mark
• Rappell device
• 2-4 5/16" quick links for bailing or replacement anchor rigs when someone stole part of the original one/its worn out

Save half the cost of a grigri and get the new 'click-up device. Works much like an autolock and less than 60 bucks. Smooth rope feeds too, much better than the feed on grigri I think.

If you're new and doing some leading right off the bat, a few bail biners (cheap) might be nice. Also make sure at least some of the draws you buy have the wider webbing. The skinny draws suck to grab when you need to do that sort of thing...

• Cinch
• 14-18 quickdraws if you're heading to spots w/ 30M+ or multipitch routes, 12 is enough for smaller crags
• Rope bag
• 4 18"-24" runners w/ locking biners
• Stick clip *60M min. (70 is better) rope with a well-defined halfway mark
• Rappell device
• 2-4 cheap bail biners for bailing or replacement anchor rigs when someone stole part of the original one/its worn out

Fixed.

Save the quicklinks for Portrero Chico.

I'd have to agree w/ beavs, if you're going to be climbing steeper terrain and can spend the extra money up front... it's really nice to have a keylock system on the gate of the bolt biner and wires on the rope end of the draw.
I've been quite happy w/ the Petzl dogbones for draws, they take a ton of abuse and don't wear out quickly and they're nice and beefy for grabbing if you need to.

Although me and my gri-gri were besties for quite awhile, I recently bought the Mammut Smart Belay device. I love the thing to death. I like lowering and being lowered a lot more with the Smart Belay and everything else is pretty much the same. Oh yeah, did I mention a Smart Belay is 28$ and a Gri-Gri is three times that?
Other than that, I like the Wild Country Wire Wire quickdraws, an ATC guide for getting down, and a couple extra biners and two foot slings to attach to anchors/set up a toprope for the rest of my group. Make sure to get four lockers, two for toprope and one for each belay device.
Also, I have a madrock harness that is great for sport. The gear loops are farther back towards my ass, which I like. I use my black diamond with the gear loops being a lot closer to the action whenever I trad though. Just something to think about

I too got the smart and like how it 'almost' locks down on the rope. But the click-up is a definate lock on device. One is a third of the price and the other is only 2/3's the price of a grigri, and weigh in waaay lighter too.

Seems like the above comments cover it pretty well, but here's my 2 cents: Got a 70m bicolor rope (9.6mm) last year and it is totally worth it. Many new routes require a 70 or drag two ropes. As mentioned above, I also love draws with a keylock top biner, wire gate bottom. My regular sport draw is the BD Hotwire though it has skinny webbing. Fatter webbing like the Petzl or others is nice for both clipping and grabbing. I usually carry 2 shoulder length runners rigged as alpine draws for the anchors up top. A daisy chain or Metolius PAS is handy when you are rigging the anchor, but an extra runner works too. I really like the standard Petzl Attache locking biners both for anchors and belaying. A rope tarp/bag is really nice at dusty sport crags for moving the rope from one route to another.

As for other stuff, the best harness is all about the best fit and comfort for me. Most seem to have useful gear loop these days. I've tried a bunch of belay devices but I still reach for my old Trango Jaws most days. There is an old thread on auto locking belay devices that you can probably track down that offers a wide perspective on the options.

Have fun!

- +1 for keylock biners on the bolt end of draws.
-Also 2 thin profile keylock locking biners for however you are attaching yourself to the anchor, be it a PAS or sling. Sometimes theres alot of stuff crammed into the anchors, helps if things are smaller.
-ATC guide or Reverso, then maybe a cinch/grigri2 when you have some experience with the ATC style device. HMS locking biner to go with.
-70m Bi-pattern rope around 9.8mm.
-Rope bag.
-Comfy harness, dosnt really matter the brand as long as it has 4 gear loops. comfy shoes, whatever fits you best.
-Helmet, might not look as cool, but neither do concussions or worse.

pants made of yellow & purple lycra
a scottish kilt
two pink flamingos
bulldog with combat boots
latest 8track from KISS, Johnny Cash, or the Talking Heads
bottle of tequila
a sombrero (sun protection)
bull whip
totally get the stick clipper thing
inflatable lobster
six pack of Corona with lime (don't forget the knife) -- yes yes a bucket of Pacifico is just fine
fold out chair with hibachi, coals, and steaks

shades, man, gotta have my shades

If you're leading, you might need some things mentioned by those other people

All you really need for sport climbing is a rope, draws (my favorite are Petzl Spirits) and a grigri.

For ropes, stick to 9.8mm or more if you plan to do much falling. Number of draws and length of rope are totally dependent on where you climb, but for most places 15 draws and a 60m rope is plenty.

I'm kind of surprised no one said get a harness. . .
You'll want/need one of these -- don't buy it used, get one that
fits and is comfortable. You may want to try it on and hang in
it from an anchor to see if it's comfortable as some anchors
aren't always on a ledge.

+1 for Petzl Spirts Draw a bit heavier but Definatly worth it. Petzl Spirt Biner on the Bolt End and Wire Gate (BD Hotwires) on the rope end.

Dont for get a Petzl Reverso or BD Guide for Rapping off Routes. Rapping when your cleaning save the Anchors at the Top.

A Daisy chain or Metolius PAS + Small Locker for Cleaning the routes

Cheap Stick Clip... 10-15'Painters Pole. Mediums size Spring Clamp, Use two hose clamps to secure the Spring Clamp to the Painter Pole and then duck tape over the Hose Clamps.

What i use for the anchors if people will be Top Roping the route is get 2 17cm Petzl Dog bones and 4 Black Diamond QuickSilver Lockers..
So.....Locker-Petzl 17cm Dog Bone-Locker

If i remember i will take some pictures tonight.

So here is the sport climbing gear i usually go out with. This will get you up any single or multi-pitch sport climb.

Sport Climbing Rack
40L Pack
Harness
Chalk Bag
Shoes
Rope 60m 9.8
Helmet
Head Lamp (Way too many times clean up and walking out in the Dark)
Stick Clip
10-15 Petzl Draws (Med and Lrg)
2 Petzl Draws with Lockers
Gri-Gri with Locker
BD Guide with Locker
Petzl Reverso 3 with Locker
Metolius PAS with locker
7mm Prusik Cord (i think it 3' long) with Biner
Belay Gloves (Great for cold days)
2-4 Petzl Attache Lockers
2-4 24" sling with two biners on each sling aka Alpine Draw
I usually have a nalgine or a 3L camelback in my pack.

Here is the Draws that i use at the top of Sport Routes if were going to be running laps on them. Biners with NO Tape go to the rope end.
Petzl Spirts with Locker

8' Stick Clip using Spring clamp, 2 hose clamps, and tape... I would get a longer one next time but it get the job done 95% of the time.
Stick clip with spring Clamp

If i had to buy draws again i would set them up as follows. BD hotwire on the rope end.
Petzl Sprits with BD hotwires on rope end

Thanks all for the great info, much appreciated. Curious who uses slings vs. a PAS when cleaning anchors? I always thought a PAS only connects you to one of the bolts, whereas for the same price I could have 2 slings and connect one to each bolt (redundancy). Looking at the strength of each the PAS goes to 18kN and a 18mm sling for instance goes to 22kN, a BD runner goes 20+, etc. so why the love for the PAS, is it cuz it can handle various lengths without the fuss of limiter knots or something? Anyone care to share their favorite runners or material?

Again, really appreciate everyones input, I'd rather do it right the first time...

I use a PAS, it's efficient & simplifies stuff at the anchor.

Mark Nelson wrote:I use a PAS, it's efficient & simplifies stuff at the anchor.

1+

slings are fixed length and sometime you need a little bit more or less length.

Dasiy chains con's, too many pockets, weak pocket strengths, don't clip two pockets or you screwed, needs too much attention.

I don't know if buying all of this at once is a burden for you or not but I'd say skip the PAS and make a purcell prusik instead - 6mm accessory cord works great. In my eyes it's just as simple to use and it has other bonuses to me also. Same goes with the Gri-gri/autolocker. Skip it. I have one and I pretty much NEVER use it. Obviously some people love them but they are expensive and I don't see that they really have any benefit over a simple/lighter ATC Guide. If you decide you want one down the road then great, I'm just trying to say you don't NEED one to sport climb.

In order of purchase:

-Harness/shoes/helmet
-Belay/rappel device - I recommend the Guide
-Lockers - 5 or so should do
-2' prusik loop for backin up your rappels
-Rope w/ rope bag - 60m is enough for the majority of climbs but it depends on where you climb most and I like my Metolius rope master.
-An equalette for the top anchor from 7mm cord. - Just as easy as slings but it's cheaper and already has limiter knots in it.
-A dozen to 18 draws - light and easy. everybody on here has good suggestions
-Personal anchor for cleaning/setting the anchor - PAS/prucell, whatever you choose for you
-Use that and see what you want/need from there

MNdude wrote:Thanks all for the great info, much appreciated. Curious who uses slings vs. a PAS when cleaning anchors? I always thought a PAS only connects you to one of the bolts, .....

What I've seen/done with the PAS is keep two lockers on it and clip one into each bolt/chain. This way it is redundant but not equalized. I personally have moved onto the purcell prusik. What I do with that is when I get to the top anchor that has two draws on it, I clip into one bolt with the purcell and unclip the draw on the other bolt/chain and clip it to my purcell that way I am connected to the second bolt if the first were to somehow fail under bodyweight.

Personally, I think the PAS is a waste for sport. I have one, i've used it a few times; thought it was a hassle. I'd rather just carry a few extra draws/extenders and clip in with them or direct to the top draws. My usual sport rack (only single pitch sport around here) is:

12 quickdraws
2 extendable quick draws (24")
1 loose locker
1 ATC guide + autolocker

Rope, Harness, shoes, helmet, chalk, gear bag.