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Starstruck
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | 2013 |
Page Views: | 741 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Difficult crux getting through the bulge. Tape up.
Climb up the bottom slab to an awkward stance below the bulge. Hand to fist jams and a few holds and sidepulls get through the crux. Step up and left to reach a left-facing corner. Climb up it, then move up and right onto the face. Follow the crack/seam as it diminishes, make a couple easy but runout slab moves to reach the top.
Climb up the bottom slab to an awkward stance below the bulge. Hand to fist jams and a few holds and sidepulls get through the crux. Step up and left to reach a left-facing corner. Climb up it, then move up and right onto the face. Follow the crack/seam as it diminishes, make a couple easy but runout slab moves to reach the top.
Location
This route climbs the slab along a crack to reach the bulging fist/hand crack above. It comes up very close to the right end of the Ledge.
Protection
Standard Adk. Rack. Consider doubling up on .7 to 2".
A #4 C4 and Tri-cams may help.
Unlike the majority of routes here, this route has no fixed anchors or convenient tree at the top. There is an excellent short, vertical 3/4" crack for setting a good gear anchor at the very top of the route; or optionally, to be used as a directional for an anchor off the large oak tree to climber's left.
A #4 C4 and Tri-cams may help.
Unlike the majority of routes here, this route has no fixed anchors or convenient tree at the top. There is an excellent short, vertical 3/4" crack for setting a good gear anchor at the very top of the route; or optionally, to be used as a directional for an anchor off the large oak tree to climber's left.
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