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BETA PHOTO: The northwest face of Strone Crag. Marked are Sta...
Starstruck takes a line just below the right shoulder of the northwest face of Strone Crag, taking in some beautiful formations and providing good position. Maybe not a full three stars now, but it should be after several more ascents.
The first pitch begins by climbing a short slab that is just above the start of the ledge system cutting across the base of Strone Crag’s northwest face (see Location). A cam in a horizontal pod and micronuts in a seam protect the slab adequately (there are good slots; look around). Continue up the crack systems above the slab to a ledge and take a short, sweet left-facing corner to another ledge system. Walk left to a bolted belay. (90 feet).
Pitch two starts by stepping left from the top bolt onto the face. Climb thin cracks until possible to move left into a hanging dihedral. Continue up the dihedral to another ledge and belay from gear. (80 feet).
The last pitch works up the obvious crack above the stance and over a small roof. Once over the roof, move left around the corner and face climb to the top and a two-bolt anchor. (50 feet). The last two pitches can be combined with a liberal use of runners.
Starstruck is on the northwest face of Strone Crag, maybe 200 feet right of the pine tree at the base of Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations, above the unappetizing dark shale bands that prevent direct access to the northwest face. The best approach to reach the route, as well as all the other routes on the north face of Strone (except for Standard Ridge), is from Challenge Buttress. From the road, walk the well-trod Challenge Buttress trail to where it splits, then take the path to the right (the trail left goes to Challenge’s east face). After 40 or so feet, the trail splits again; stay to the right (going left leads to Challenge’s north and west faces). Continue along this trail for maybe 200 feet to its end at a scree and boulder gully, where a steeper trail can be gained that ascends the right-side of the gully and soon reaches the right-end of the ledge system from which all the routes start. The start of the ledge system is usually cairned. Starstruck begins on the obvious slab above the right-end of the ledge system, just above a large, dead pine tree.
Standard trad rack supplemented by a set of micronuts (for the first pitch slab). Can make one long rappel from the two-bolt anchor atop the route (two 60 meter ropes), or two rappels stopping at a two-bolt hanging stance halfway down (not recommended). Both get you to the ledge system from which the climb begins.
BETA PHOTO: Janie on the first pitch during the FA.
To the top.
|By Shaun Greene|
Jun 23, 2009
Excellent route up great rock. Fun moves and cleaning up nicely. Bring those micro cams for the beginning of the second pitch...Dont be dissuaded by the rotten looking begining of this climb.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2011
Really nice route - great job finding this. Much better than Wealth of Nations on the same crag. The hanging belay to rap with one rope is not a big deal and way less hassle than bringing a second rope.
Aug 4, 2012
This should be included in everyone's BCC moderate list. Great climb in an uncrowded locale. 1 60 m rope works fine for getting off. The slings at the middle rappel station could be replaced, the bolts are good. Second pitch is money!
From: Evanston, WY
Aug 28, 2012
Good climb. Wimped out on leading 2nd pitch but did 3rd just started trad tho.. I didnt see any anchors at the top of pitch 3 looked all over so we seen some old webbing on the left there is a trail to the right down a chokestone gullly. Took the scramble down to the big pine and Rapped down to shelf and walk to Rapplers left and you should see pitch 1 anchors then rap again.
Fun climb 2nd pitch makes the climb
|By John Steiger|
Aug 28, 2012
Hey rking—Glad you liked the route. The anchors on top of the third pitch are two Metolius rap hangers (no chains--the hangers are made to be threaded), tucked somewhat under a slight overhang, just back from the edge of the wall. Several routes end here, like Cost of Business and Old Habits Die Hard, so next time, eh?
From: Evanston, WY
Aug 29, 2012
Good to know for next time. From the looks of the webbing up top and the scramble down the little gully we werent the only ones. Thanks for info on anchors will find them next time.
Great climb once again