This is a very serious lead, so make sure you are ready to keep your head together through some tough moves with ground fall potential. Great climbing down low, not as great up high but still fun (and better protection).
Climb a few steep moves to a stance and gear in a horizontal. Traverse left and up past a half driven pin in absolutely horrible condition. It is so rusted I bent it by hand when deciding if i should clip it. I did get a micro cam about a foot or so below it. the section by the pin is techy but not too powerful. After that relax a minute, get some bomber gear in and do the powerful finish, climbing a big flake to an interesting mantel move.
All in all, I'll admit this thing got my blood pumping a little on the onsight, haha.
In the middle of the crag to the left or Romulan Route 5.11a. The best way to locate it is by looking for the nasty pin 20 feet up in a short left facing corner.
dont forget a few micro cams, and hand sized cams for up high. Anchor from trees.
|Comments on Starship Enterprise