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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Sam Stephens on Apr 29, 2012
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An area classic. This line is characterized by ever steepening juggy climbing with a bouldery crux or two up high and a climatic finish.


From the trail head walk climber's right for 5 feet and locate the maink chain as the second bolt. This is starry.


9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
4 days ago

This route didn't have any moves harder than clipping the chains on it's neighbor, meathead. Almost everything on this route is a jug and there are huge feet everywhere. I also sneaked in a no hands, lay down rest about 2/3 of the way up utilizing a calf toe cam. That's probably the reason this thing felt like 11d to me.

By Sam Stephens
2 days ago

The sit/lay down rest above the 4th or 5th bolt is great. The climbing to that point isn't that difficult, but you can get almost everything back right there.