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 ADVANCED
Third Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alleluja S 
Beer Pressure S 
Bittersweet S 
Coffindaffer's Dream S 
First, Last, and Always S 
Half Mast S 
Happy Sexgiving S 
King Lichen Me S 
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 
La Senora No Contenta S 
Lieutenant Tomek  S 
Meathead S 
Moselstraße S 
Mr. Cute S 
Prow, The S 
Shake And Not Stir S 
Skull In Hole S 
Starry S 
Strip Tease S 
Supermoon S 
Thrill in the Ville S 
Unnamed S 
Vanished S 
Wanderer, The S 

Starry 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: Sam Stephens on Apr 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

An area classic. This line is characterized by ever steepening juggy climbing with a bouldery crux or two up high and a climatic finish.

Location 

From the trail head walk climber's right for 5 feet and locate the maink chain as the second bolt. This is starry.

Protection 

9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.


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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Apr 12, 2014

This route didn't have any moves harder than clipping the chains on it's neighbor, meathead. Almost everything on this route is a jug and there are huge feet everywhere. I also sneaked in a no hands, lay down rest about 2/3 of the way up utilizing a calf toe cam. That's probably the reason this thing felt like 11d to me.
By Sam Stephens
Apr 14, 2014

The sit/lay down rest above the 4th or 5th bolt is great. The climbing to that point isn't that difficult, but you can get almost everything back right there.