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A weird start leads to a small roof and the finger crack. Follow this till it widens (#3 and #4 Camalot) and thins again. Rappel the route off of a bolt and a tree (addendum: now 2 bolts). Also, this goes at C1+.
This is the finger crack just left of a clean corner.
Aid rack- 1 set of nuts, double set of cams, many finger-sized pieces, and one #3 and #4 Camalot.
Free rack- less than above.
Bolt and tree anchor (addendum: now 2 bolts).
|By Shaun Reed|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
Unbelievable line! Takes great gear, lots of small aliens for the crux section. It does not see the traffic it deserves, so go get on it!
|By Skyeler Congdon|
From: his van
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Visiting strong climbers beware:
More than one person has fallen off this route, decked, and broken their back. (Hey, if I had to know this before my redpoint than so do all of you!!)
There is a spot below the crux where you can place two bomber pieces, equalize them, and get a good shake before tackling the crux. I would recommend this. There is good, solid pro throughout the whole climb, but take care to place it well...
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 7, 2011
Added a second bolt to the anchor a few years back. No need to use the little tree.
|By Ben Griffin|
From: Durango, CO
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
There really isn't a reason for anyone to break their back on this route. I wouldn't climb on it if it was wet, and placing gear on this route is not a problem. Bring at least one purple Metolius size, doubles in all finger sizes starting at blue Metolius to green Camalots. Other helpful sizes are a single set of red cams to #3 size cams. I'm going up there soon to remove all the scrub oak which will greatly improve the belay area.
P.S. This crack eats stoppers pretty easily. The bottom of the crack is softer rock, but it takes really good gear and the crux of the route is on really good rock. This is a short and stout pitch.