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Christa Cline starting the crux section of Star Wa...
EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts wall. Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful). Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).
P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful hand crack (obvious), 5.7.
P2. Jam the hand crack for 40 feet and mantle (crux) onto small ledge, continue up V-slot with thin hands another 25 feet to small ledge....turn small roof into short V-slot that takes you to the summit. Belay on summit ridge and descend west until you can scramble down into gully between Lower and Upper Peanuts.
Take extra hand size cams in addition to standard rack. Aliens/TCUs helpful.... gear anchor(s).
Just topping out on P1 with the P2 crack looming a...
Just below the crux move out of the crack on P2
Eric tops out on the short, yet glorious P2 crack.
Above this crack is a weird chimney
Starting the V-slot.
Christa Cline laybacking the exit move from the st...
Steve Bond linking P1 & P2
Me leading the hand sized pitch of Star Wars.
DC pushing upward thru V slot
The first pitch of Star Wars.
Vince and Kevin on the climb.
Looking down on the upper half....
|By Ben Mottinger|
Jan 1, 2001
This is an atypical crack pitch for Eldo. A parallel hand crack with nothing for the feet except to jam the crack. This is a burly and sustained 40ft. of 5.8 jamming. A 2.5 Friend is the perfect size for this crack.
|By Matt Bauman|
Jan 1, 2001
Forgot to mention, while starting up the awesome 2nd pitch we heard a huge CRACK and looked across the canyon at Redgarden and saw 2 HUGE chunks of rock falling thru the air from somewhere around Yellow Spur area...a couple more CRACKS and it was over...SCARY...it was around 6pm, and if it was a weekend someone or a few folks would have died for sure. I don't know if it was precipitated by anything (a climber) or if it was intentional (highly doubt this). Anyone else know anything about this or if it affected any climbs on Redgarden west????
|By Erik Corkran|
May 29, 2001
It seems like I climbed this route every few weeks one summer -- my favorite 5.8 in Eldo. Highly recommend doing it as one pitch (but long, like Matt said).
|By Chris Fisher|
Jun 13, 2001
I also think that doing it as one pitch is the best way. The crack was a great jammer without many rest spots. I also really enjoyed the exit at the top of the 5.8 crack. Highly recommended for crack lovers.
|By Michael Walker|
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 28, 2001
Here's a fun way to end an evening that a friend showed me - instead of the final roof and belay from the summit, put in some pro to protect the second and hand traverse left once above the hand crack. Very Airy traverse! - You can then belay from the bolt anchors on Forbidden Planet (try topping that stellar line if you like). Easy two rap down to the ledge instead of a hike.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Jun 23, 2002
Good route! It is possible to add some quality climbing by doing a short 1st pitch right off the trail instead of going up to the ramp and then back down. The pitch is an obvious crack that goes straight up off the trail for 15 feet then hand traverses right then up a finger crack. It starts directly below the obvious crack on pitch two of Star Wars. It is about 50 feet long and probably 5.9+, watch for a loose block during the hand traverse....
Jul 22, 2002
Nice climb. Wasn't sure where to start... we did the off-width that's up around the corner from Trouble and Strife. Nice varied, easy climbing to the base of the second pitch...
|By Shane Zentner|
Jul 22, 2002
Awesome climb. The second pitch of Star Wars offers good hand jamming and laybacking. Definately, bring hand size pro for the second pitch. Have fun!
|By Ernie Port|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 30, 2002
Somewhat unique Eldo climb, with good pro...highly recommend.
|By Clint Locks|
Oct 9, 2002
(There sure are a lot of 'Chris's registered on this site...Anyway-) What a beauty! I followed this a couple of years ago and have been itching to get back on it on lead...which I did yesterday with, ironically, Chris Drumwright.
Only one substantial comment-watch out for the 'oh-so-nearly-so-perfect' big chock stone in the V slot as one pulls the small roof on P2. I'd hate to see it levered out of there. Enjoy! Don't forget those extra #1 and #2 (and 2.5?) Camalots if you're into sewing up the hand crack! And Chris would say that having big hands makes the climb suck a little bit.
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 15, 2003
Beautiful and varied climbing -- and very fun squirming up the v-chimney.
|By Holly Barnard|
Apr 15, 2003
Wow, great crack pitch! Too short tho. 3 comments - there are foot holds (small ones, yes) on the left face. I pretty sure I only jammed my right foot most of the way and smeared or stood on nubbins on the left. Also, I thought the crack exit was more of a layback than a mantle. If you sew up the crack and don't want to run it out, you might want to save a #1 Camalot (possibly .75) for the 5.6 slot/crack above. I had some crappy hexes in there. It's easy 5.6, but would still make for a long fall.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Apr 24, 2003
The variation to the first pitch I suggested is called Trouble and Strife.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 12, 2004
I can't comment on the rating because it seems to me that different guides really describe this one differently. I climbed 4 variations between Home Free and Your Basic Lieback (also good). One post names one variation but does not describe it. They go at .7 to about .9+ . Does anyone have more beta?
|By Stephen Allen|
Apr 19, 2005
This was great - we climbed it twice. great protection all the way up (Camalots #0.75, 1 and 2 (bring a couple #2s) and a couple of Aliens - yellow and red. Nuts are useful too) The first 20 feet are on solid holds, the crack is Perfect (#2 Camalots) and the v-slot above it is actually a lot easier than it looks since you can use good holds on the face and on the arete. A #1 and/or a .75 camalot protects the v-slot. Once you're above the v-slot and over a small and easy roof it is a scramble on big holds to the top (you could run this out pretty safely if you're out of gear) The climb is easily do-able in one pitch - it's about 100 feet to the top.On the approach I was walking around at the base of the base of peanut wall and looking at rossiter's topo for about 10 minutes before my friend yelled down from a ledge about 15 feet above to let me know that the climb started up there. So once you reach the base of the wall, hike up and right in order to get on top of a ledge which is at the base of the route. Now that you have all this info you probably don't even need to go climb it!
|By J.E. Liebgott|
Sep 13, 2005
I was expecting a much better route from the description. The fun hands section is probably 25 feet long - the rest is not all that exciting or enjoyable. There was a fixed Tech Friend at the bottom of the hand crack that will likely come out without too much work. I could not booty it, but not for lack of trying. My hands were too big to really work the lobes, but they all 4 moved. Booty for some lucky dog.
|By Bo Johnston|
Sep 27, 2005
I agree with the previous comment. This route wasn't all that amazing from the boasting I have heard. I would say it "looks" better than it tastes. The hand crack looks really cool but only offers a couple moves and were a little wide at the top for my hands.
|By Jo Holloway|
May 30, 2006
Unlike Liebgott and Johnson, I found the entire climb exciting and enjoyable. If you are looking for long crack climbs, Eldo is the wrong place. The route has a nice mix of face climbing, crack climbing with a few contortionist maneuvers that keep it fun.
|By Dane Casterson|
Sep 6, 2006
Great route. The uniform crack on P2 makes for some strenuous laybacking on P2 depending on handsize.
|By Luis Barandiaran|
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 11, 2007
Climbed this today (on second). Nice first pitch from the lower ledge (5.7). Fun jugs just where you need them (gotta love Eldo!). The exit onto the ledge under the hand crack was sweet. I found the hand crack a little strenuous. Upper half I said "Screw it" and laybacked the final moves into the V-slot above. Of course, this is probably easier on second. The V-slot and notch through the roof were pretty funky, but fun. All in all, a terrific 2-pitches. For descent, it seems that scrambling south to the notch up there is the way to go.
|By kevin donald|
Apr 30, 2007
When we first climbed this lovely, atypical (for Eldorado) crack in '77, it was the location (high above the river) and the curved geometry of the crack and dihedral that intrigued us. At first glance, we felt it would be somewhat more difficult than 5.8; however, the jams were secure and by Yosemite standards it is quite short. We had no camming devices, but it accepted nuts easily. The students were stoked to do a first and Paul Sibley confirmed the 5.8 rating the next day.
I still feel it is worth the approach.
|By Mike C. Robinson|
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 21, 2007
What a great climb. I would highly recommend this to any level climber.
|By Eric Goltz|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2008
Do this as one pitch from the lower ledge. You'll only wish the crack was longer!
|By Julius Beres|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2009
This felt much easier to me than YBL (5.6) next to it... the hand crack is perfect. Excellent hand and foot jams and everything is so secure. If there were 5 pitches of this, it would be my favorite Eldo climb. Doing it in one pitch felt like the way to go. One long sling on my first pitch of the hand crack and there wasn't any rope drag. The first pitch can easily be protected with smaller gear to save your hand sized cams (#1 and #2 BD) for the crack.
The approach and the loose rock on the ledges detracts a bit, but I still loved the route.
Jun 18, 2009
Only do pitch 2. You can get to it by walking right and talking the big chossy ledge down to the start of P2.
|By Sean Wolf|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 7, 2009
Too thin for it to be good jams for my big hands :-\
|By Drew McLean|
Nov 29, 2009
Star Wars is an enjoyable climb albeit the hand crack is rather short. I climbed this today and as my belayer was beginning to follow me up pitch 2 he managed to knock off a sizable few blocks off the chossy ledge as he was removing our gear sling after cleaning the belay.
Excuse me for stating the obvious, but exercise caution on the chossy P1 belay ledge. Good thing it was shady and cold so we were the only people up there.
Another option for the descent: If you scramble traverse up the ramp on the back of the wall you will see a hole in between a notch that leads to a large tree with slings and 2 rap rings. We added another 7mm cord on the 2 existing slings, one of which was crap. The tree seemed well rooted and strong at this time.
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 2, 2010
Fun crack for Eldo. Definitely some loose stuff on the ledges and "P1" but as long as you're careful it's not a big deal. The climb eats nuts if you don't have doubles. Definitely link the pitches. The V slot/offwidth has great rests the entire way if you want them, and the hand crack opens for easier feet at least every body length.
|By Matt Richardson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 19, 2010
From top to bottom, a beautiful climb. I don't know if it is a size thing or what, but on P2 I felt the hands were good enough, but I could never really get a good foot in that crack - just seemed a little small for some reason (my inherent weakness?). Having not been out in a while, that second pitch provided a little more pump than I expected for a 8. Definitely do this in one pitch - there should be no problem with rope drag on this thing.
|By Count Chockula|
From: Littleton, CO
Oct 4, 2010
Finally got a chance to lead this yesterday after having followed it about 3 years ago. Pretty steep and sustained jams, but there are workable stances every body length or so, as mentioned. I had a hard time getting solid jams at the crux before the exit right and ended up pumping out trying to get set my hands in the crack. After a quick shake out, I just laybacked through the crux as well. The v-slot up high is sweet.
Sep 5, 2011
Led this today in 2 pitches. First pitch was easy 5.5. Belay in the rotten band at the base of the second pitch has a VERY loose, large block. If we had someone to clear the base of the wall, we would have trundled it. Be careful.
The crack on P2 was sustained and pumpy. A #2.5 Friend and a #2 Camalot sewed it up. Mostly jams. The v-slot was just awkward. Exiting the v-slot required a high step. Belayed just below the summit in the wide slot. Probably not ideal. Lots of loose/hollow flakes up there. Be careful.
Needed nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot on either pitch.
|By Zane E|
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 1, 2011
Fun, fun, fun climb...too bad the crack isn't longer (as usual)!
I definitely did a layback on the crux move (see at about 3:50 in video) and was pretty easy for a newer climber -- doing a mantle would have been a bit more challenging for my skinny arms.