Star Trekkin' 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Robinson, Bard et al. (?) |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | ttriche on Mar 14, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Just entering the wider, somewhat flared, crack sy...
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Description Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.
P1 (5.7) As for Mithral.
P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right.
P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay.
P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'.
P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.
We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.
Location This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!
Protection Alpine rack, extra hand-sized pieces and nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on Star Trekkin'. After pitch 3 or 4....
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splitter
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splitter
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Harz pulling through the crux bulge.
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Harz leading the money pitch.
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Flex following pitch 3
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| Comments on Star Trekkin' |
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By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2008
| Isn't there some options at the top? Heard you can traverse over to Mithril, head into an offwidth or do some scary 5.11 stuff.
Anyone have a recommendation? |
By clustiere
Jul 30, 2008
| just follow the obvious line the OW is not bad, good for ya if you plan on doing keeeler. Great climb!!! bring smallest aliens for the crux. |
By Murf
Sep 17, 2008
| Murf's comments posted into the route description - thanks Murf. |
By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
Jul 16, 2009
| There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb. |
By Murf
Mar 15, 2010
| I'm confused! Did I edit my own comment (two above), or did an admin? I love me some mountain proj, but whoever edited my comment... just let me know if you're slurping my beta, then delete the comment. Then I can tell if I forgot my meds, or if something else happened. |
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