|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Robinson, Bard et al. (?)|
|Page Views: ||5,070|
|Submitted By: ||ttriche on Mar 14, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Just entering the wider, somewhat flared, crack sy...
Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.
P1 (5.7) As for Mithral.
P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right.
P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay.
P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'.
P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.
We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.
This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!
Alpine rack, extra hand-sized pieces and nuts.
|Comments on Star Trekkin'
|By Charles I.|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2008
Isn't there some options at the top? Heard you can traverse over to Mithril, head into an offwidth or do some scary 5.11 stuff.
Anyone have a recommendation?
Jul 30, 2008
just follow the obvious line the OW is not bad, good for ya if you plan on doing keeeler. Great climb!!! bring smallest aliens for the crux.
Sep 17, 2008
Murf's comments posted into the route description - thanks Murf.
Jul 16, 2009
There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb.
Mar 15, 2010
I'm confused! Did I edit my own comment (two above), or did an admin? I love me some mountain proj, but whoever edited my comment... just let me know if you're slurping my beta, then delete the comment. Then I can tell if I forgot my meds, or if something else happened.