BETA PHOTO: Just entering the wider, somewhat flared, crack sy...
Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.
P1 (5.7) As for Mithral. P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right. P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay. P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'. P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.
We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.
This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!
There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb.
I'm confused! Did I edit my own comment (two above), or did an admin? I love me some mountain proj, but whoever edited my comment... just let me know if you're slurping my beta, then delete the comment. Then I can tell if I forgot my meds, or if something else happened.
Excellent handcrack, one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Sierra. You can do Mithral and Star Trekkin both in a day by climbing Star Trekkin first and then rapping Mithril, then climbing back up it to get your gear. I put a TR up here, hopefully it's helpful: pullharder.org/2012/03/22/how-i-started-crackin%E2%80%99-on->>>
I had heard a lot about the different variations to end Star Trekkin. If you go up and left then you climb “5.10 dirty offwidth” or if you continue high right then you traverse “5.11 sketch.” This is why we brought extra small gear and 3.5 and a 4 camalot. In retrospect they were pretty useless on the route. I set up a belay had an obvious exit point towards Mithral Dihedral. The exit was a traverse with about 10 feet of easy class 5. It was a cruiser finish into the final pitch of Mithral. You can find the photo of the traverse here: