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 ADVANCED
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bogosity (Link-up) T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Disputed, The T 
Dynamo Hum T 
El, The T 
Great Chimney T 
Lonely, The T 
Pete's Farewell T 
PF Flyers T 
Raging Raven S 
Roaches on the Wall T 
Rock and Roll Star T 
Star Sailor T 
Wald-Calder Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Star Sailor 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: April, 1981--Don Mellor
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 8, 2009

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Description 

Well-protected, pumpy crack climbing through a steep bulge characterize this airy journey.

Climb the first 6 feet of the traversing 2nd pitch of "Pete's Farewell", then climb the short face to reach the bottom of the initial crack.

Take this until it's end, make a balancy move left a couple feet to reach the bottom of the right-facing corner. Hard moves over this to a welcomed rail. Mantel onto the rail, place some gear and blast through the final bulge, with smeary feet and thin finger locks.

Finish the route by traversing right a couple feet into the final, blocky steeps of "The Disputed". Shared chain anchors.

Location 

6-feet into the traversing 2nd pitch of "Pete's Farewell".

Protection 

A rack of small to medium nuts, plus finger size cams up to A single #2.


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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Aug 6, 2014

Beautiful, well protected finger crack with great position, on great rock!!! I think one of the better finger cracks in the park.