|Consensus: || Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
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|Submitted By: ||WAGbag on Mar 29, 2011|
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Pulling the first hard move down low
|Guided Access Only|
Some areas require a guide.
One of the best V5s at Hueco. Don't be deceived by starting at the constriction between the floor and roof - look down into the dark depths for the real start. This climbs over 30 ft and you can step off at almost any point!
Start all the way at the back moving a bit left then back right into the ass-dragger constriction and a rest. Continue up the face with a heart-breaker pinch near the end.
2 pads recommended down low, at least one at the main level and two over the boulders for the upper face. Something thin might be nice for the hard moves at the constriction.
Jul 31, 2013
The roof portion is long, and the crimpy crux comes super late once you're out of the save and about to top out. There is one very narrow section about 1/3 through the route where it is easy to dab as you're about 3 feet or less off the ground.
A great route and a good warmup as you can take a rest and get back on at any point.
Aug 6, 2013
Broken holds on the face leading to topout. Don't know what they were like before, but the group I was with insisted that the problem was *much* easier before they were broken. Because of this you need several spotters, pads, and the problem is probably bumped up a couple of grades due to the pump you'll feel before hitting the crux just before topout.