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There are three to four pitches depending on how you split the route up. Generally done as a short pitch, long pitch and short pitch.
P1: 20m 5.7, 3 bolts. Start left of the toe of the arete, at a ledge above the high-water mark. Climb up and right to the crest of the arete and a belay ledge.
P2: 40m, 5.6, 8 bolts. Climb on and just left of the crest of the low-angle arete, past an intermediate station used mostly for single rope rappels with short ropes, to gain a big ledge with a number of chain stations.
P3: 25m, 5.8+/9-, 3 bolts. cross the ledge and climb a slab dihedral just right of a blank corner. The crux is immediately obvious past a short overlap and is done with a bolt at the waist; the rest of the pitch is 5.7. At the top, hook back left to the belay ledge and bolts in the trees.
A 5.10c variation to this last pitch climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location.
Approach from the top by the scambling trail and make two - 60m rappels or four shorter ones in to the base. Or make the sketchy approach along the riverbank from the north.
8 quickdraws plus a couple extra ones to leave behind at stations on the rap in and collect on the way back out.
Bottom of the rappel at the base of Star Chek
First pitch of Star Chek
Finishing up Star Check
The Squamish River from the top of Star Chek
BETA PHOTO: The base of the route
|By Jon Leighton|
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Very nice and very steady, perfect for taking that confident, non-climbing friend on. Mostly 5.6 climbing with maybe one or two 5.7 moves higher up.