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Galaxy Buttress
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Apollo 13 T,S 
Star Chek S 

Star Chek 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: prepped: Ron Goldstone 1994-1995. FA stolen by Kevin Mclane and Sig Isaac 1995
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 2,704
Submitted By: Dru on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Annie Simard seconding the middle pitch of Star Ch...

Description 

There are three to four pitches depending on how you split the route up. Generally done as a short pitch, long pitch and short pitch.

P1: 20m 5.7, 3 bolts. Start left of the toe of the arete, at a ledge above the high-water mark. Climb up and right to the crest of the arete and a belay ledge.

P2: 40m, 5.6, 8 bolts. Climb on and just left of the crest of the low-angle arete, past an intermediate station used mostly for single rope rappels with short ropes, to gain a big ledge with a number of chain stations.

P3: 25m, 5.8+/9-, 3 bolts. cross the ledge and climb a slab dihedral just right of a blank corner. The crux is immediately obvious past a short overlap and is done with a bolt at the waist; the rest of the pitch is 5.7. At the top, hook back left to the belay ledge and bolts in the trees.

A 5.10c variation to this last pitch climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location.

Location 

Approach from the top by the scambling trail and make two - 60m rappels or four shorter ones in to the base. Or make the sketchy approach along the riverbank from the north.

Protection 

8 quickdraws plus a couple extra ones to leave behind at stations on the rap in and collect on the way back out.


Photos of Star Chek Slideshow Add Photo
The Cheakamus River from the top of Star Chek
The Cheakamus River from the top of Star Chek
Bottom of the rappel at the base of Star Chek
Bottom of the rappel at the base of Star Chek
Finishing up Star Check
Finishing up Star Check
First pitch of Star Chek
First pitch of Star Chek
The base of the route
BETA PHOTO: The base of the route

Comments on Star Chek Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Leighton
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very nice and very steady, perfect for taking that confident, non-climbing friend on. Mostly 5.6 climbing with maybe one or two 5.7 moves higher up.
By dseltzer
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Both the first and the third pitch have four bolts, not three. When rapping the route, use the anchors to climbers left for the second rap, not the ones on the right near the arete which are used for the actual climb. If you have a 70m, you can avoid the last rap as well if you are careful about rope ends. From the second to last rap station, angle slightly left towards the trees and away from the arete. A 70m will just barely get you to the fixed rope along the bottom of the climb.

Fun climb, and not as runout as I expected with the low bolt counts.
By AndySkol
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

We rapped the route, but were told there is another rap route just past the top anchors of the route that reaches the ground in two raps with a single 60m rope. This would be far preferable with other parties on the route, because rapping past them while climbing is sucky.

You will see the rap anchors in question if you walk past the top anchors for star chek across the gravelly slab (be careful) and peer over the edge (climber's left from star chek). just past the edge there are two bolts with quick links, which is consistent with the mid pitch two rap anchor on star chek. I did not use these rap anchors, I only heard from other climbers that they lead to the ground in two 30m or shorter raps. Can anyone confirm?

I found that the bolts were very thoughtfully placed, but the route still felt run out to me. There is only one short 5.9 move at the bulge on the top pitch, but I do think that move is 9, not 8.
By Lina Baker
Aug 26, 2014

SUCH a fun climb! Well worth the time it takes to do the raps from the top--make sure the leader has the camera and gets some shots down as the follow comes up; the view of the canyon and the river makes for some beautiful shots (and what appears to be extreme exposure to show your mom!). I took the 10c variation at the top and it was well worth it. It cruxes just above the 2nd bolt on the slab section and the pull over the "roof" is easy and well-protected. If you're on a rest day or are a new leader, this is a great climb!