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Either wedge yourself in the chimney and have some physical fun or pinch the arete to the right. either way, eventually reach a roof with great hand jams and pull it.
The route is just left of the Snakes and Ladders face. The obvious roof w/ a thin hand crack.
Up to a #2 camalot. Lots of small stuff for the lower corner. Descend via a tree w/ slings and rap rings.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jul 29, 2006
I put the route in the database as a .10- because that's how it's listed in the book. Personally, I feel the thing's a scorchin' sandbag! The roof is easy, but the lower dihedral is REALLY physical!!
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 27, 2006
Great route, but you better enjoy some good ol' fasion "body english", or you won't be having a good time....
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 6, 2007
scary down low with minimal good pro. physical. good route though.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Probably 10b or 10c. The stemming work is not rudimentary. Beware of sandbags. A few small nuts protect some interesting climbing, so not for the trad noobie. Fun route though, and certainly height dependent.
Jun 5, 2007
This entire rock is just full of sandbags.
|By Courtney Pace|
Sep 5, 2010
Definitely a rewarding climb. the portion below the roof requires a few tricky placements with some not so regular moves. I agree with the "body english" statement, but its a cruise past the roof.
From: tacoma, toyota
Sep 23, 2010
"Descend via a tree with rap rings"
-Maybe I missed this tree, but I just built an anchor, brought my second up and descended the chains atop groovy crack.
From: Alpine, Utah
Dec 2, 2012
This was a popular test piece as early as '76. Did it that year with Rick Wyatt - off width master.