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Elevation: 6,490 ft
GPS: 51.18569, -116.05394
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Shared By: Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose

Description Suggest change

Home to a number of the Rockies' best-known ice and mixed routes, the Stanley Headwall is a truly spectacular venue. Joe Josephson's guide says it best: "Every major route on the wall is sustained, technically difficult, and contains sections of serious climbing."

Getting There Suggest change

Although the Stanley Headwall is actually in B.C., most people access it from the Banff National Park. So I'll list it as such. Drive 20 miles north from Banff on Hwy 1 to Castle Junction. Take a left on Hwy 93 for a little over 8 miles to the Stanley Glacier trailhead, which is on the south side of the road. Follow the well-marked and heavily traveled switchbacked trail until it eventually emerges from the trees into the valley above. The Headwall will be looming above you to the right.

Allow 1.5 - 2 hours, depending on snow, how fit you are, and whether or not you are using skis or snowshoes.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stanley Headwall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI6
 23
Nemesis
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI5+ M7+
 11
Suffer Machine
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI5 M6
 4
General Malaise
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5 M8
 8
Man Yoga
Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI6 M7 PG13
 4
The Day After les Vacances de Mo…
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 M7-
 9
French Reality
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nemesis
 23
WI6 Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Suffer Machine
 11
WI5+ M7+ Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
General Malaise
 4
WI5 M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Man Yoga
 8
WI5 M8 Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
The Day After les Vacances…
 4
WI6 M7 PG13 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 7 pitches
French Reality
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 M7- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stanley Headwall »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

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