Home to a number of the Rockies' best-known ice and mixed routes, the Stanley Headwall is a truly spectacular venue. Joe Josephson's guide says it best: "Every major route on the wall is sustained, technically difficult, and contains sections of serious climbing."
Although the Stanley Headwall is actually in B.C., most people access it from the Banff National Park. So I'll list it as such. Drive 20 miles north from Banff on Hwy 1 to Castle Junction. Take a left on Hwy 93 for a little over 8 miles to the Stanley Glacier trailhead, which is on the south side of the road. Follow the well-marked and heavily traveled switchbacked trail until it eventually emerges from the trees into the valley above. The Headwall will be looming above you to the right.
Browse More Classics in Stanley Headwall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stanley Headwall:
Nemesis WI6 Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 525 feet, Grade V
French Reality 5.8 WI6 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 150 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For Stanley Headwall
Nemesis WI6 International : Canada : ... : Stanley Headwall
Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb two pitches of variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge at 2/3rds height. The crux 3rd pitch involves steep, sustained climbing on typically good ice. A final short pitch leads to the top.Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route....[more] Browse More Classics in International