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Stanley Headwall

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French Reality T 
General Malaise T 
Man Yoga T,S 
Rhamnusia T 
Suffer Machine 
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Stanley Headwall  

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Location: 51.19831, -116.04256 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,021
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The Stanley Headwall, from the trailhead. The pro...


Home to a number of the Rockies' best-known ice and mixed routes, the Stanley Headwall is a truly spectacular venue. Joe Josephson's guide says it best: "Every major route on the wall is sustained, technically difficult, and contains sections of serious climbing."

Getting There 

Although the Stanley Headwall is actually in B.C., most people access it from the Banff National Park. So I'll list it as such. Drive 20 miles north from Banff on Hwy 1 to Castle Junction. Take a left on Hwy 93 for a little over 8 miles to the Stanley Glacier trailhead, which is on the south side of the road. Follow the well-marked and heavily traveled switchbacked trail until it eventually emerges from the trees into the valley above. The Headwall will be looming above you to the right.

Allow 1.5 - 2 hours, depending on snow, how fit you are, and whether or not you are using skis or snowshoes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stanley Headwall:
Nemesis   WI6     Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 525'   
French Reality   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Stanley Headwall

Featured Route For Stanley Headwall
Suffer Machine

Suffer Machine WI5+ M7-8  North America : Canada : ... : Stanley Headwall
Suffer Machine is an excellent Stanley Headwall route! The mixed climbing is on high quality rock and is followed up by steep, sustained ice.The crux is the roof on the first pitch. Start at the base of a blocky column of rock below and to the right of the hanging dagger. Climb about 15m to a stance below the roof, where you can clip two bolts, and get a decent rest. Step out and get good tool placements above the roof and clip the first bolt. It's strenuous, because your feet are way under...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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