Stanley Headwall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  2,721. Good page?    Administrators:  Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun 50° | 39° 50° | 37° 55° | 30° 55° | 28° 63° | 28°

BETA PHOTO: The Stanley Headwall, from the trailhead.

Description 

Home to a number of the Rockies' best-known ice and mixed routes, the Stanley Headwall is a truly spectacular venue. Joe Josephson's guide says it best: "Every major route on the wall is sustained, technically difficult, and contains sections of serious climbing."

Getting There 

Although the Stanley Headwall is actually in B.C., most people access it from the Banff National Park. So I'll list it as such. Drive 20 miles north from Banff on Hwy 1 to Castle Junction. Take a left on Hwy 93 for a little over 8 miles to the Stanley Glacier trailhead, which is on the south side of the road. Follow the well-marked and heavily traveled switchbacked trail until it eventually emerges from the trees into the valley above. The Headwall will be looming above you to the right.

Allow 1.5 - 2 hours, depending on snow, how fit you are, and whether or not you are using skis or snowshoes.

The Classics

Featured Route For Stanley Headwall

Nemesis WI6  International : Canada : ... : Stanley Headwall

Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb two pitches of variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge at 2/3rds height. The crux 3rd pitch involves steep, sustained climbing on typically good ice. A final short pitch leads to the top.Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route....[more]   Browse More Classics in International