Standing Wave  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  D Brayshaw, S Goldin July 2001 Season:  June-September Submitted By:  Dru on May 1, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sarah Goldin seconding a pitch on Standing Wave du...

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Description 

This is the leftmost route on the Fantastic Wall of Mt Athelstan and climbs an arete and hanging slab in a great position.

Begin immediately left of the major gully left of Moonraker at the toe of an arete.

1) climb the arete for a full ropelength, belay below a steep wall (5.7)
2) traverse left on a ledge that gradually becomes a handrail. where the handrail ends, pull up over the vertical wall on good holds to gain the hanging slab.
3, 4) continue up the corner forming the right edge of the slab
5) where the corner ends at a roof, climb out onto the open slab with good holds but scant pro. continue up excellent rock with flat incut holds and no pro for a long way to a belay on a small cam and a piton in a groove (5.8R)
6) climb to a thin crack and follow it to its end, then make cruxy face moves over a bulge to a good ledge (5.9)
7,8) climb blockier, better-protected rock for one to two pitches to reach the snowpatch high on the face
9,10) cross the snowpatch, angling left; 35 degrees or so. rubble late in season
11, 12) climb a pitch and a half of blocky 5.6 up an arete to reach the summit rim.

Location 

see overview photo topo. Descend the major gully between Fantastic Wall and Randy Stoltmann Buttress

Protection 

A few KB and LA are very useful for belays on the runout crux pitches. Otherwise, crampons and ice axe for approach and descent and a standard free rack with pieces to 3".