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> Mt Athelstan
Standing Wave
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Mount Athelstan
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des Roches/Matwyuk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire Ball WI5 M5 |
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Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Keep your Heid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M5 Mod. Snow R |
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Kiss of Death (Sinnes Couloir) Steep Snow |
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Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow |
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Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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South Face, Randy Stoltmann Tower T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Stokeman Pillar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | D Brayshaw, S Goldin July 2001 |
| Page Views: | 1,372 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on May 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
This is the leftmost route on the Fantastic Wall of Mt Athelstan and climbs an arete and hanging slab in a great position.
Begin immediately left of the major gully left of Moonraker at the toe of an arete.
1) climb the arete for a full ropelength, belay below a steep wall (5.7)
2) traverse left on a ledge that gradually becomes a handrail. where the handrail ends, pull up over the vertical wall on good holds to gain the hanging slab.
3, 4) continue up the corner forming the right edge of the slab
5) where the corner ends at a roof, climb out onto the open slab with good holds but scant pro. continue up excellent rock with flat incut holds and no pro for a long way to a belay on a small cam and a piton in a groove (5.8R)
6) climb to a thin crack and follow it to its end, then make cruxy face moves over a bulge to a good ledge (5.9)
7,8) climb blockier, better-protected rock for one to two pitches to reach the snowpatch high on the face
9,10) cross the snowpatch, angling left; 35 degrees or so. rubble late in season
11, 12) climb a pitch and a half of blocky 5.6 up an arete to reach the summit rim.
Begin immediately left of the major gully left of Moonraker at the toe of an arete.
1) climb the arete for a full ropelength, belay below a steep wall (5.7)
2) traverse left on a ledge that gradually becomes a handrail. where the handrail ends, pull up over the vertical wall on good holds to gain the hanging slab.
3, 4) continue up the corner forming the right edge of the slab
5) where the corner ends at a roof, climb out onto the open slab with good holds but scant pro. continue up excellent rock with flat incut holds and no pro for a long way to a belay on a small cam and a piton in a groove (5.8R)
6) climb to a thin crack and follow it to its end, then make cruxy face moves over a bulge to a good ledge (5.9)
7,8) climb blockier, better-protected rock for one to two pitches to reach the snowpatch high on the face
9,10) cross the snowpatch, angling left; 35 degrees or so. rubble late in season
11, 12) climb a pitch and a half of blocky 5.6 up an arete to reach the summit rim.
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