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Regular Route, The 

Standing Rock 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 19, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Bruce Genereaux rapping after sunset.

Description 

First climbed by Layton Kor et.al. in 1962, this is the tower of which Kor said "We climbed it because it won't always be there." Although not quite "layers of rye-krisp sandwiched between layers of kitty litter" this rock ain't granite. But the standard route is actually pretty solid. It is a 300' tower with a 50' diameter at the base and maybe 6' at the top. Towers don't get more phallic than this, and the summit is simply awe-inspiring.


Getting There 

Follow the directions under the "Island in the Sky" area to Monument Basin. The road heads North then turns West and then Southwest, and just as it heads directly South it gets very close to the rim. This is where you want to walk out on rock (careful of the cryptobiotic soil) to the rim. There are some small trees right on the edge. Set up an anchor and fix a rope. Rap down to the ground (bring jumars to get out) and follow the wash down to the basin. Standing Rock is obvious.

There is a trail down to the basin, starting farther south (about 1 mile) and is a long hike.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Standing Rock:
The Regular Route   5.11c     Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   
Browse More Classics in Standing Rock

Featured Route For Standing Rock
Stepping away from the belay on pitch 2. Very interesting and sustained.

The Regular Route 5.11c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Standing Rock
This is my favorite desert tower route. Now all free, with a well-protected crux, much Eldorado Canyon-style face climbing on fine rock, cheek-clenching exposure (or is it fine exposure and cheek-clenching rock?), and a classic flat summit. The regular route (the only other route, on the south side, has aid and is likely unrepeated) is a true desert classic, combining a sense of history and exploration with technical high quality pitches.Start on the northeast corner, under a big clean dihedra...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Standing Rock Slideshow Add Photo
This is a rare and beautiful sight if you're into desert towers.

This is a rare and beautiful sight if you're into ...

Standing Rock from the White Rim.

Standing Rock from the White Rim.

Briton Charlie French rapping off....

Briton Charlie French rapping off....

Standing Rock is down there in the middle.

Standing Rock is down there in the middle.

Standing Rock from the approach

Standing Rock from the approach

"Not because it's there, but because it might not be there much longer." (Layton Kor, one of the tower's three first ascensionists, on why they climbed the tower.) Photo snapped by Andrew Kulmatiski.

"Not because it's there, but because it might not ...

Bill holding the Standing Rock summit register. Ninth ascent.

Bill holding the Standing Rock summit register. Ni...

Standing Rock

Standing Rock

buttonheadspinner on top of Standing Rock, 1987.

buttonheadspinner on top of Standing Rock, 1987.

Bill Ellwood on top of Standing Rock, 1987.  The aluminum box to the left of Bill is the original summit register, permanently affixed with a Star Dryvin bolt, apparently by the first ascent team.  Their signatures were still there.

Bill Ellwood on top of Standing Rock, 1987. The a...

Back to the Future Toast for <br />Bill and Buttonheadspinner!

Back to the Future Toast for
Bill and Buttonheadsp...


Standing Rock <br />March, 1985ish <br /> <br />Tom Vanco jumaring

Standing Rock
March, 1985ish

Tom Vanco jumaring


One of the coolest towers I've seen

One of the coolest towers I've seen

From the White Rim

From the White Rim

Standing Rock in the late PM.

Standing Rock in the late PM.


Comments on Standing Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2002

I thought the Kor quote was "Not because it's there, but because it might not be there much longer."

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jun 10, 2007

For more reading, click: www.joshuatreeclimb.com/Stories/prestandingrock.htm