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The Land of Standing Rocks
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Standing Rock: Chortler's Joy T 

Standing Rock: Chortler's Joy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 165', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 [details]
FA: Bill Duncan, Jon Burnham
New Route: Yes
Season: spring or fall
Page Views: 2,315
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006

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Standing Rock of the Maze (AKA Candlestick Spire)

Description 

This route begins on the west side of Candlestick Spire. Climb a bit of A1 to get to the good bedding seam ledge. Traverse left (north) on the ledge to get to the base of a lovely offwidth chimney. Climb some 5.9 to the summit.

Location 

Candlestick Spire (AKA Standing Rock) is located among the Land of Standing Rocks in the Maze district.

Protection 

Bring some thin gear for the first pitch, and some wide gear for the second pitch.


Photos of Standing Rock: Chortler's Joy Slideshow Add Photo
Jon's on the summit
Jon's on the summit
Dave on the summit.
Dave on the summit.
Dave Levy leading Pitch 1 (C2+) on Standing Rock.
Dave Levy leading Pitch 1 (C2+) on Standing Rock.
Kristen Levy jugging Pitch 1 just below the belay ...
Kristen Levy jugging Pitch 1 just below the belay ...
Higher up on Pitch 1 before traversing to the R cr...
Higher up on Pitch 1 before traversing to the R cr...
Standing Rock and Chimney Rock, The Maze District.
Standing Rock and Chimney Rock, The Maze District.

Comments on Standing Rock: Chortler's Joy Add Comment
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By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Mar 5, 2008

This particular route may be an FA. But this thing was climbed by 7 people from Western State College in 1975.

And I don't think it was an FA even then.

mountainproject.com/v/colorado...
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Jun 18, 2009

That article refers to Candlestick Tower, not Candlestick Spire. There is no "3rd class" on this spire.
That said, judging by the webbing, there had been at least 2 previous ascents of this spire.
By ratfink
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+

This route was climbed fully clean at 5.9 C2+ by David and Kristen Levy on March 20th, 2013. The route actually begins more on the S-SW side of the tower. Scramble up 15 feet to a stance with good protection. Climb through a thin section above (small alien/slider) and then through an overhanging crack that leads up and right to a good ledge. From here I climbed straight up with good small pro aiming for a bomber 1 camalot placement. A tension traverse to the right provides access to a decent crack that ends in a flare a few feet below the bedding seam ledge. I used a final hook move up and left to gain the good ledge where you can traverse left (north) to the base of the offwidth crack. TCUs/aliens/0.75 camalot and medium stoppers are useful for protecting the second on the traverse and for building a belay anchor at the base of P2. The offwidth section of P2 is very short and reminded me of the crux on Great Googly Moogly. Minimal wide gear is needed (I placed an old 4.5 camalot high in the crack). The crack continues (mostly 1 to 3 inches) with a slightly-shakey and loose topout. Rappel from anchors on the opposite (E) side of the tower (2 pins and 1 bolt). This tower has certainly only seen a handful of ascents. We found an old Velvet tobacco tin on the summit with a damaged lid, a pencil, and no paper. Suggested rack:

Small HB offsets (1-6)
Med/large HB offsets (7-11) (2 sets)
Tricams (small/med)
TCUs (1 set)
Aliens (2 sets, offsets useful)
Camalots (double set 0.5 - 3, single 4 and 4.5)
Hook

Beta photo for Pitch 1 (C2+).
Beta photo for Pitch 1 (C2+).