Type: | Ice, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,755 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jan 4, 2015 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
As you look up at the large flow of "Standard" there are two caves. [See photo] The normal route climbs to the cave on the right (where there is [2019] both a 3-piton anchor and a double bolt anchor). The normal route steps out left from this "right hand cave" and then follows the easiest path up a shallow groove/corner formation. (The "window variation" climbs out a "window" on the right.)
The cave on the left presents an opportunity to climb a completely separate route (except for the exit "pitch 3"). In the early years ( i.e. 1970's, before the bolts were put into the cave on the right, and before some changes in the water flow changed the ice pattern) this variant was considered pretty much the "standard" way to climb "Standard", as it offered a solid rock-belay. Today the old pins have long gone and hardly anyone does "Standard" this way anymore. It's usually a bit more difficult (1/2 grade??) than the 'standard' way to climb Standard.
P1 - Climb to the "cave" on the left. WI 3 Bring rock gear for the belay.
P2 - Move out right (photo) and up the flow to the top, WI 3+ to 4- depending on conditions and where you go. Some belay at a pine tree and do a "Pitch 3" exit pitch.
The cave on the left presents an opportunity to climb a completely separate route (except for the exit "pitch 3"). In the early years ( i.e. 1970's, before the bolts were put into the cave on the right, and before some changes in the water flow changed the ice pattern) this variant was considered pretty much the "standard" way to climb "Standard", as it offered a solid rock-belay. Today the old pins have long gone and hardly anyone does "Standard" this way anymore. It's usually a bit more difficult (1/2 grade??) than the 'standard' way to climb Standard.
P1 - Climb to the "cave" on the left. WI 3 Bring rock gear for the belay.
P2 - Move out right (photo) and up the flow to the top, WI 3+ to 4- depending on conditions and where you go. Some belay at a pine tree and do a "Pitch 3" exit pitch.
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