P1 5.7 Start in the obvious corner and climb up to the black patch of rock and belay from bolted anchor.
P2 5.7 Follow the crack/corner up and left to bolted anchor near a small tree on a big ledge.
P3 5.9 From the ledge head left to the corner, climb up and over the roof (fun move/crux) to easier ground and the top of the cliff. Belay from near the tree at the top of the crag.
The route starts about 20 yards from the parking area.
Walk off to the east down the sloping ramps.
Standard rack to #3 camalot
Lena on the final pitch of The Standard Route
1st pitch of the Standard Route.
|Comments on Standard Route
|By Brian in SLC|
Sep 30, 2009
Wasn't this called Pigeon Shit Express or Birdshit Express or some such?
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
One of the few routes you can do in the Bozeman area during a sunny winter day. Great fingers, lie backs with a more stout final sequence.
|By Ty Morrison-Heath|
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
The roof pull is stout put takes great pro so it's not to bad.
|By Kurt Prond|
From: Bozeman, MT
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
You've got to take Montana ratings with a grain of salt. Back in the day, when these routes were put up, 5.10 was the hardest. So 5.9 was just one grade below, which still meant pretty hard. I guess Montanans are still a little behind the times, which may or may not be good. Anywhere else, the last pitch of this route would be called solid 5.10, maybe even 10+. There aren't very many 5.9's that pull a decent sized roof with almost nothing for feet at other destinations, even if it is bomber hand jams. A really fun route!
Apr 8, 2013
Goes in two pitches pretty easy, one to the big ledge with the tree and than a short one to the top.
|By Matthew Abbott|
May 24, 2013
Climbed this route over the winter but decided to do the Direct Finish. The rock quality and exposure through this finish were great! Highly recommended.