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 ADVANCED
Jimmy Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Crack T 
Beginning of All Things, The S 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 
Cracker Cracks T 
Curl Up and Fly S 
Drilling for Dollars S 
Easter Squall S 
Hammond Organ S 
Hypocrisy S 
Jimmy Crack Corn T 
Junco S 
Lady and the Tramp S 
Lonesome Dove S 
Love Nest T,TR 
Nuthatch, The S 
Piece of Cake S 
Pine Tree Crack T 
Scare Crow T 
Searchers, The T 
Standard Route T 
Stool Pigeon T 
Teacherís Pet S 
Things as They Are S 
Things As They Are Now S 
Things I Never Learned S 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 
To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,407
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Apr 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

This route is fun route but it being overtaken by lichen and grass. The route starts about twenty feet right of Lady and the Tramp directly under three(?) trees that are in a line. Climb up the slab eventually getting yourself into a shallow groove where there is good protection (and is also the part that offers the best climbing) and follow shallow groove to the belay ledge, the ledge is obvious. From the left side of the ledge make crux moves with good gear and continue up the slab to the top.

My choice way to do this is after the crux break left and avoid the tree's and lichen of this route and finish on the top 15-20 feet of lady and The Tramp.

Location 

Left side of Jimmy Cliff on the 300 foot slab, route starts about 20 feet right of Lady and the Tramp.

Protection 

Standard Trad rack.


Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Nov 8, 2009

That's the high spirit that was the slabs before the bolting. All the bolted slab routes can be climbed in this mannerism. The bolts are here and they are well placed. I used to out right after the belay ledge bulge to get to the top.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 8, 2009

Bradley these slabs are a ton of fun all the routes can still be lead on gear, if you want the adventurous feeling.
By Jon Hollander
Jun 17, 2013

I'll have to go back up and take some pictures of this route to post. I felt like there were several variations for the 2nd pitch that all looked fun. We followed the groove to the left of the tree belay and angled right to the bulge and straight over the top, staying right of lady and the tramp the whole way up. While doing that I noticed a really good crack system farther to the right, going almost straight up from the tree we were belaying at. We wanted to get on Pine Tree Crack and were short on time so will have to try that next time!
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Apr 15, 2015

Did a link-up today of this from Alcove Crack. Not bad if you want to add some variety to either of the climbs. Head up to the Alcove crack anchors, and clip a long draw on them. Continue upward and left until you're starting to reach the end of your rope. Build an anchor, and follow standard route to the top. Not the worst thing I've ever climbed.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 16, 2015

Seems like you might be able to link in from Jimmy Crack Corn too, heading up the steep corner. Or perhaps start up Love Nest and follow left towards the headwall / corner before heading up. You get a decent look at it in my detail photo (below and on front page). I'd be wary of dropping rocks down on the hordes below.

mountainproject.com/images/50/...
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