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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
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Contact Zone, The T 
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Mars Western T 
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Standard Route 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 1000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: possibly A. Dalgleish, E. Brooks, 1931
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: West face of the Old Settler from the end of the l...

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This scrambling and descent route climbs the west face of the peak via a north-trending ramp of light rock. From Daiphy Lake, hike up talus and scree below the west face, trending left and up to gain the base of the west face near where the ramp ends at talus. Scramble up solid rock to gain the ramp itself, which involves much sandy scrambling on gritty slabs and the occasional section of 3rd class rock. The ramp ends at the col between the central and north summits. The north (highest) summit is 3rd class from the col while the central summit is stiff 4th class.


Descend same route - rappels unnecessary.


Bring ice axe in early season (until late July).

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