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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
Select Route:
Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
Duck a L'Orange T 
East Buttress of the South Peak T 
Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 
West Buttress of the South Peak T 
West Couloir T 
West Face of the North Peak T 

Standard Route 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 1000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: possibly A. Dalgleish, E. Brooks, 1931
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: West face of the Old Settler from the end of the l...

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Description 

This scrambling and descent route climbs the west face of the peak via a north-trending ramp of light rock. From Daiphy Lake, hike up talus and scree below the west face, trending left and up to gain the base of the west face near where the ramp ends at talus. Scramble up solid rock to gain the ramp itself, which involves much sandy scrambling on gritty slabs and the occasional section of 3rd class rock. The ramp ends at the col between the central and north summits. The north (highest) summit is 3rd class from the col while the central summit is stiff 4th class.

Location 

Descend same route - rappels unnecessary.

Protection 

Bring ice axe in early season (until late July).


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