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The Old Settler
Select Route:
Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

Standard Route 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I British: M 1a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 1000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I British: M 1a [details]
FA: possibly A. Dalgleish, E. Brooks, 1931
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: West face of the Old Settler from the end of the l...
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This scrambling and descent route climbs the west face of the peak via a north-trending ramp of light rock. From Daiphy Lake, hike up talus and scree below the west face, trending left and up to gain the base of the west face near where the ramp ends at talus. Scramble up solid rock to gain the ramp itself, which involves much sandy scrambling on gritty slabs and the occasional section of 3rd class rock. The ramp ends at the col between the central and north summits. The north (highest) summit is 3rd class from the col while the central summit is stiff 4th class.


Descend same route - rappels unnecessary.


Bring ice axe in early season (until late July).

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