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Standard Route Area
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Penguin, The 
Standard Left 
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Standard Route 
Waterfall 

Standard Route 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus: WI3+ [details]
FA: S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971
Page Views: 4,131
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Climbers of the left-hand side of Standard.

Description 

An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.

Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through a cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.

Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox

Location 

Roughly 300 yards along the tracks past the trestle. Impossible to miss.

From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.

Protection 

Ice screws


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Standard Route. The cave with bolts can be seen to...
BETA PHOTO: Standard Route. The cave with bolts can be seen to...
In the cave
In the cave
Leader from another party leaving the cave
Leader from another party leaving the cave
Climbers on the right-hand side. The belayer is ha...
Climbers on the right-hand side. The belayer is ha...
Heading up 2nd pitch. Left of cave
Heading up 2nd pitch. Left of cave
Tim on standard...
Tim on standard...
Pitch 1 of Standard Route, photo by Kevin Chlad
Pitch 1 of Standard Route, photo by Kevin Chlad
Tim Martel Taking his rope for a walk on Standard ...
Tim Martel Taking his rope for a walk on Standard ...
Standard Route not so standard
Standard Route not so standard

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Mar 23, 2008
rating: WI3

There are two fixed anchors inside the cave. On the right side you'll find a pair of bolts with rap rings. Less obvious, on the left side are some pins which can be backed up nicely with a #1 Camalot.

I made the mistake of going straight for the bolts as soon as I saw them, when I wanted to exit the left side of the cave. Maybe you won't have to move your anchor, like I did.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: WI3+

This is a great route for WI 3 climbers looking to do their first multi-pitch route. Super fun but its popular on weekends so avoid parties above you!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 12, 2012
rating: WI3

Several lines possible here. We climbed the left side from the cave but bypassing the cave on the right looks fun(also the better option if you set the belay up at the bolts.) On the top of the climb near the left side is a fun WI4- pillar.