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The Precipice
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Balance Queen T 
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Recollections of Pacifica T 
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Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Standard Route T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks T 
Wafer Step T 
Wet Lithuanian T 
Unsorted Routes:

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,309
Submitted By: Ladd on Sep 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Kyle starting up Standard Route.


Enjoyable climbing on the second pitch more than makes up for the bad first pitch and it's weird body positions an gear.

P1: Start up the route from just behind the boulder and make awkward moves up to a pin, clip it and make a traverse move right (crux) place a piece and grovel into the chimney. Pull the flaring chimney and setup an anchor, either use the horn backed up or the crack.

P2: Stem, Layback, or straight on your way up the short WIDE chimney, it is very classic and unforgettable. clip the pin at the top and traverse 20' right to a rap station and belay up your second.

2 60m ropes reach the ground.


This climb can be found where the approach trail comes to a fork, locate the big boulder right in front of you, the route starts from behind the boulder and ascends the obvious broken easy 5th class ramp.


Full rack to #4(2nd pitch needs big gear#2-#4)

1 pin on the 1st pitch.

Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Ben leading the second pitch
Ben leading the second pitch

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By redpoint robby
From: Dover, NH
Apr 28, 2010

Warning: A friend of mine was traversing through the crux and pulled a little too hard on that key hold (upside down triangle/pinch thing) on the face and it ripped out. A 20 (or so) pound block came out with it and tumbled to the ground. There were no injuries but what is left is kind of a big sloping pocket making the move substantially more difficult than 5.6. We didn't have a chance to get back on it so I am unsure of a true rating. Any feedback on the rating is welcome.
By gio92
From: Easton, PA
Sep 4, 2012

I disagree that you need the #4, but you could place it if you wanted. Definitely make sure you have .75-3 camalots or equivalent on the second pitch though. The first pitch is interesting, I thought the dihedral right below the belay was fun, but not half as good as the second pitch.
By sclair
From: SLC, Ut
Jun 22, 2013

I second that need for .75-3. I had none, they were on the anchor, and I really wanted them. The 2nd pitch makes this worth it, with really interesting stemming for the 5' climber!
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

P1 - Blocky move up to traverse move. Traverse move looks harder until you start to try it, then really not bad with a small layback. Exiting dihedral above was harder I thought, not sure if people climb the big sketchy block on right instead sometimes?
P2 - A little awkward at parts, layback to stem, repeat. Had to be careful not to place cams where they could walk into deep cracks.

Overall not a bad climb, protection was all there (didn't need #4, but wouldn't have hurt to have it either), but nowhere near as good of quality as Story of O.
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