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Standard Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,778
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Sep 30, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Kyle starting up Standard Route.

Description 

Enjoyable climbing on the second pitch more than makes up for the bad first pitch and it's weird body positions an gear.

P1: Start up the route from just behind the boulder and make awkward moves up to a pin, clip it and make a traverse move right (crux) place a piece and grovel into the chimney. Pull the flaring chimney and setup an anchor, either use the horn backed up or the crack.

P2: Stem, Layback, or straight on your way up the short WIDE chimney, it is very classic and unforgettable. clip the pin at the top and traverse 20' right to a rap station and belay up your second.

2 60m ropes reach the ground.


Location 

This climb can be found where the approach trail comes to a fork, locate the big boulder right in front of you, the route starts from behind the boulder and ascends the obvious broken easy 5th class ramp.


Protection 

Full rack to #4(2nd pitch needs big gear#2-#4)

1 pin on the 1st pitch.



Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Ben leading the second pitch
Ben leading the second pitch
Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By redpoint robby
From: Dover, NH
Apr 28, 2010

Warning: A friend of mine was traversing through the crux and pulled a little too hard on that key hold (upside down triangle/pinch thing) on the face and it ripped out. A 20 (or so) pound block came out with it and tumbled to the ground. There were no injuries but what is left is kind of a big sloping pocket making the move substantially more difficult than 5.6. We didn't have a chance to get back on it so I am unsure of a true rating. Any feedback on the rating is welcome.

By gio92
Sep 4, 2012

I disagree that you need the #4, but you could place it if you wanted. Definitely make sure you have .75-3 camalots or equivalent on the second pitch though. The first pitch is interesting, I thought the dihedral right below the belay was fun, but not half as good as the second pitch.

By sclair
From: SLC, Ut
Jun 22, 2013

I second that need for .75-3. I had none, they were on the anchor, and I really wanted them. The 2nd pitch makes this worth it, with really interesting stemming for the 5' climber!