|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 180'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Ladd Raine on Sep 30, 2007|
|Comments on Standard Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By redpoint robby
From: Dover, NH
Apr 28, 2010
|Warning: A friend of mine was traversing through the crux and pulled a little too hard on that key hold (upside down triangle/pinch thing) on the face and it ripped out. A 20 (or so) pound block came out with it and tumbled to the ground. There were no injuries but what is left is kind of a big sloping pocket making the move substantially more difficult than 5.6. We didn't have a chance to get back on it so I am unsure of a true rating. Any feedback on the rating is welcome.|
From: Easton, PA
Sep 4, 2012
|I disagree that you need the #4, but you could place it if you wanted. Definitely make sure you have .75-3 camalots or equivalent on the second pitch though. The first pitch is interesting, I thought the dihedral right below the belay was fun, but not half as good as the second pitch.|
From: SLC, Ut
Jun 22, 2013
|I second that need for .75-3. I had none, they were on the anchor, and I really wanted them. The 2nd pitch makes this worth it, with really interesting stemming for the 5' climber!|
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
P1 - Blocky move up to traverse move. Traverse move looks harder until you start to try it, then really not bad with a small layback. Exiting dihedral above was harder I thought, not sure if people climb the big sketchy block on right instead sometimes?
P2 - A little awkward at parts, layback to stem, repeat. Had to be careful not to place cams where they could walk into deep cracks.
Overall not a bad climb, protection was all there (didn't need #4, but wouldn't have hurt to have it either), but nowhere near as good of quality as Story of O.