Unknown party on the 2nd pitch, viewed from across...
A Bozeman classic! One of those "at least once a season" type of routes. FA of the tower is unknown, but local legend Jerry Kanzler did the direct finish in 1967.
P1- Climb a right-leaning crack to a left-facing corner. End on an awesome ledge with rap bolts. 5.6, 60'.
P1a- Direct Start: Start to the left of said crack/corner, in another corner w/ a prominent flake. 5.8, 60'.
P2- The butter! Climb a gorgeous left-facing corner with a crack of varying sizes. Follow it through a series of bulges to the exit out right on a large ledge. NOTE: The old guidebook notes that it "takes a 50m rope" to belay from the big ledge (instead of setting the belay at the top of the corner), but who uses those anymore? 5.8, 150'.
P3- Grovel up the obvious chimney to easier ground. Scramble to the top. 5.7, 100'.
P3a- DIRECT FINISH. Highly recommended. The standard 5.9 for the Gallatin. Climb jugs and jams in a crack through the obvious overhanging face, right of the chimney. Hit easier ground and scramble to top. 5.9, 100'.
The route is pretty much dead-center on the Tower. Look for the enormous left-facing corner from the ground. Descend by a single-rope rap off the summit. Scramble down a large ledge to the skier's left and find another bolted rap. 100' to the ground. Skirt the base of the tower back to your packs.
Take a standard rack w/ singles to a #3 Camalot. Lots of runners for the long second pitch.
One of my favorite stories about G. Tower comes from a good friend of mine. When he first moved to Bozeman he showed up at the base and came across Jack Tackle (I am not sure if he knew what grand company he was in or not!) But anyway, he asks Jack how many pitches it is, rope beta, etc. and Jack looks at him and says, "I have no idea, I haven't climbed this with a rope in years..."
This is a great route. It has been a long while since I've been in Bozo but I always enjoyed this route. It does get a lot of traffic and has seen its share of accidents. I even heard of a bachelor party at the top of the route :)--Montanans!
I just got back from a year sport climbing in France, and this was the perfect route to get back into MT climbing. We took the standard chimney finish. I'd recommend setting the first belay on some broken ledges about 15 feet above the large ledge with rap bolts, as this makes rope drag on the second pitch much less noticeable. This route protects very easily, unlike some others in the canyon, and seems to eat up nuts. Highly recommended.
I've noticed an abundance of bail gear after the second pitch as of late. I have picked up two bail anchors in this very early season alone. It very well could be that the left route has gotten harder as a LARGE chunk has fallen out over the winter. I personally always finish on the far superior (IMO) 5.9 to the right. I would like to tell everyone that there is a bolted anchor down to the right (Sort of near the little scrub tree) at the top of Generation X that will get you to ledges that you can then scramble down (Rap from the large tree) or scramble around the exposed corner (climbers left) and rap the first pitch of orange crack.
Excessive bail gear on that route is nothing new. One of my climbing partners used to solo the standard route on Monday mornings to collect all the booty left by weekend warriors who got in over their heads. He pieced together quite the rack doing this!
The big flake near the top of the second pitch is no longer attached. My leader pulled on it with no problem and as I followed I pulled it out, I pushed it back in but it is not connected. It is marked with a chalk 'X'