Standard Route 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, 1960's |
| Season: | Spring-Fall |
| Submitted By: | Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007 |
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Kelby on Gallatin Tower's standard first pitch.
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Description A Bozeman classic! One of those "at least once a season" type of routes. FA of the tower is unknown, but local legend Jerry Kanzler did the direct finish in 1967. P1- Climb a right-leaning crack to a left-facing corner. End on an awesome ledge with rap bolts. 5.6, 60'. P1a- Direct Start: Start to the left of said crack/corner, in another corner w/ a prominent flake. 5.8, 60'. P2- The butter! Climb a gorgeous left-facing corner with a crack of varying sizes. Follow it through a series of bulges to the exit out right on a large ledge. NOTE: The old guidebook notes that it "takes a 50m rope" to belay from the big ledge (instead of setting the belay at the top of the corner), but who uses those anymore? 5.8, 150'. P3- Grovel up the obvious chimney to easier ground. Scramble to the top. 5.7, 100'. P3a- DIRECT FINISH. Highly recommended. The standard 5.9 for the Gallatin. Climb jugs and jams in a crack through the obvious overhanging face, right of the chimney. Hit easier ground and scramble to top. 5.9, 100'.
Location The route is pretty much dead-center on the Tower. Look for the enormous left-facing corner from the ground. Descend by a single-rope rap off the summit. Scramble down a large ledge to the skier's left and find another bolted rap. 100' to the ground. Skirt the base of the tower back to your packs.
Protection Take a standard rack w/ singles to a #3 Camalot. Lots of runners for the long second pitch.
Unknown party on the 2nd pitch, viewed from across...
| BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch
| Cliff on the Second pitch of the Tower
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| Comments on Standard Route |
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By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT May 10, 2007
| One of my favorite stories about G. Tower comes from a good friend of mine. When he first moved to Bozeman he showed up at the base and came across Jack Tackle (I am not sure if he knew what grand company he was in or not!) But anyway, he asks Jack how many pitches it is, rope beta, etc. and Jack looks at him and says, "I have no idea, I haven't climbed this with a rope in years..." |
By Sarge May 15, 2007
| This is a great route. It has been a long while since I've been in Bozo but I always enjoyed this route. It does get a lot of traffic and has seen its share of accidents. I even heard of a bachelor party at the top of the route :)--Montanans! |
By Bryan Gartland From: Helena, MT Jun 13, 2007
| John, it's worth adding that Jack tramped all over our flaked ropes as we talked, then proceeded to solo the thing. It was a funny introduction to the Canyon classic. |
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 12, 2007
| I forgot that part, that just makes it funnier. But I didn't realize that you were with Tim that day. Either way I hope you are still enjoying the canyon this time around. A beautiful place. |
By Nick Stayner From: The Magic City Aug 1, 2007
| Yes, tha cookout utilizing the fabled grill stashed near the summit has become something of a tradition of Bozeman locals. |
By Camilla Jul 19, 2008
| Danm, I forget the meat for the BBQ. This was a very fine route, top quality granite. |
By W.S. From: Montana May 31, 2010
| I just got back from a year sport climbing in France, and this was the perfect route to get back into MT climbing. We took the standard chimney finish. I'd recommend setting the first belay on some broken ledges about 15 feet above the large ledge with rap bolts, as this makes rope drag on the second pitch much less noticeable. This route protects very easily, unlike some others in the canyon, and seems to eat up nuts. Highly recommended. |
By Ty Morrison-Heath From: Bozeman, MT Apr 2, 2013 rating: 5.8+
| Fantastic route. Here is a video of a Northern Lights employee soloing it if you want an idea of what the route is like.
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By Ty Morrison-Heath From: Bozeman, MT May 2, 2013 rating: 5.8+
| I've noticed an abundance of bail gear after the second pitch as of late. I have picked up two bail anchors in this very early season alone. It very well could be that the left route has gotten harder as a LARGE chunk has fallen out over the winter. I personally always finish on the far superior (IMO) 5.9 to the right. I would like to tell everyone that there is a bolted anchor down to the right (Sort of near the little scrub tree) at the top of Generation X that will get you to ledges that you can then scramble down (Rap from the large tree) or scramble around the exposed corner (climbers left) and rap the first pitch of orange crack. |
By Nick Stayner From: The Magic City May 3, 2013
| Excessive bail gear on that route is nothing new. One of my climbing partners used to solo the standard route on Monday mornings to collect all the booty left by weekend warriors who got in over their heads. He pieced together quite the rack doing this! |
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