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Gallatin Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bowling for Buicks S 
Dagger, The T 
First Best T 
Generation X T,S 
Guide Route T 
India Ink T,S 
Orange Crack T 
Soft in the Middle T,S 
Spare Tire T,S 
Standard Route T 
Ten Pin S 
Thing In Between T 
Tigger T 
Top Heavy T,S 

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, 1960's
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 7,246
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Unknown party on the 2nd pitch, viewed from across...

Description 

FA of the tower is unknown, but local legend Jerry Kanzler did the direct finish in 1967.

P1- Climb a right-leaning crack to a left-facing corner. End on an awesome ledge with rap bolts. 5.6, 60'.

P1a- Do The Dagger

P2- Climb a gorgeous left-facing corner with a crack of varying sizes. Follow it through a series of bulges to the exit out right on a large ledge. 5.8, 150'.

(p 1&2 can be done as one with a 70m and maybe (unconfirmed) w/ a 60m rope.

P3- Grovel up the obvious chimney to easier ground. Scramble to the top. 5.7, 100'.

P3a- DIRECT FINISH. Highly recommended. Climb jugs and jams in a crack through the obvious overhanging face, right of the chimney. Hit easier ground and scramble to top. 5.9, 100'.

Location 

The route is pretty much dead-center on the Tower. Look for the enormous left-facing corner from the ground. Descend by a single-rope rap off the summit. Scramble down a large ledge to the skier's left and find another bolted rap. 100' to the ground. Skirt the base of the tower back to your packs.

Protection 

Take a standard rack w/ singles to a #3 Camalot. Lots of runners for the long second pitch.


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Cliff on the Second pitch of the Tower
Cliff on the Second pitch of the Tower
Kelby on Gallatin Tower's standard first pitch.
Kelby on Gallatin Tower's standard first pitch.
2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch
Gallatin Tower Standard Route topo.  Follow red fo...
BETA PHOTO: Gallatin Tower Standard Route topo. Follow red fo...

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 21, 2014
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 10, 2007

One of my favorite stories about G. Tower comes from a good friend of mine. When he first moved to Bozeman he showed up at the base and came across Jack Tackle (I am not sure if he knew what grand company he was in or not!) But anyway, he asks Jack how many pitches it is, rope beta, etc. and Jack looks at him and says, "I have no idea, I haven't climbed this with a rope in years..."
By Sarge
May 15, 2007

This is a great route. It has been a long while since I've been in Bozo but I always enjoyed this route. It does get a lot of traffic and has seen its share of accidents. I even heard of a bachelor party at the top of the route :)--Montanans!
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Jun 13, 2007

John, it's worth adding that Jack tramped all over our flaked ropes as we talked, then proceeded to solo the thing. It was a funny introduction to the Canyon classic.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 12, 2007

I forgot that part, that just makes it funnier. But I didn't realize that you were with Tim that day. Either way I hope you are still enjoying the canyon this time around. A beautiful place.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 1, 2007

Yes, tha cookout utilizing the fabled grill stashed near the summit has become something of a tradition of Bozeman locals.
By Camilla
Jul 19, 2008

Danm, I forget the meat for the BBQ.
This was a very fine route, top quality granite.
By W.S.
From: Montana
May 31, 2010

I just got back from a year sport climbing in France, and this was the perfect route to get back into MT climbing. We took the standard chimney finish. I'd recommend setting the first belay on some broken ledges about 15 feet above the large ledge with rap bolts, as this makes rope drag on the second pitch much less noticeable. This route protects very easily, unlike some others in the canyon, and seems to eat up nuts. Highly recommended.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic route. Here is a video of a Northern Lights employee soloing it if you want an idea of what the route is like.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I've noticed an abundance of bail gear after the second pitch as of late. I have picked up two bail anchors in this very early season alone. It very well could be that the left route has gotten harder as a LARGE chunk has fallen out over the winter. I personally always finish on the far superior (IMO) 5.9 to the right. I would like to tell everyone that there is a bolted anchor down to the right (Sort of near the little scrub tree) at the top of Generation X that will get you to ledges that you can then scramble down (Rap from the large tree) or scramble around the exposed corner (climbers left) and rap the first pitch of orange crack.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
May 3, 2013

Excessive bail gear on that route is nothing new. One of my climbing partners used to solo the standard route on Monday mornings to collect all the booty left by weekend warriors who got in over their heads. He pieced together quite the rack doing this!
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Jun 30, 2013

Ticks.....
By The Flying Dutchman
Aug 29, 2013

The big flake near the top of the second pitch is no longer attached. My leader pulled on it with no problem and as I followed I pulled it out, I pushed it back in but it is not connected. It is marked with a chalk 'X'
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 23, 2014

Fantastic. Second pitch is money.

LOTS of chalk x's on the third pitch.

Second on the ticks. Watch out this year. I've found at least one on me for every time I've climbed outside.
By Nate K
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

the 5.9 3rd pitch is as hard as tigger and first best IMO. take the fingercrack to the right (5.8+) at the top of the second pitch to avoid the deathflake