|16,118 page views|
Good page? (3 likes)
This route may rival the 3rd Flatiron as the best easy multi pitch climb in the states. Although the climbing is relatively easy, there are huge runouts (30-50ft) and few features.
P1 (5.0R 100ft) Scramble up to the Launch Pad.
P2 (5.1R 110ft) Angle up and right past a few flakes. (Toilet Bowl Pitch)
P3 (5.2R 150ft) Head straight up past two bolts and a flake mid pitch. Belay on a ledge with large crystals.
P4 (5.3R 100ft) Head straight up passing a few cool pockets. (tricams) Belay in the underlapping crack.
P5 (5.4 130ft) Follow the arching crack, pull the through at an intersecting arch (~60ft) and belay on a ledge. (Lunch Ledge)
P6 (5.5R 120ft) Head straight right past 2-3 bolts, head up the arching crack, pull through at a crack system and belay.
P6 (5.7 120ft) A better pitch heads up and right past some fixed gear and ends at the same location. (Slabs Direct)
P7 (5.2R 80ft) Head up and left and belay on a ledge.
P8 (5.2R 120ft) Continue up on a dike passing an overlap, and belay on a ledge.
P9 (5.2R 150ft) More runout fiction past one bolt to the top.
Descent: Head to your right, and find a wandering trail back to the base. It is probably possible to rap the route with two ropes, if it starts to rain.
Light SR, including some small tricams
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Standard Route done with the 'Quartz P...
Dave Trumper leading up from the Quartz Pocket on ...
dave at the top of the arch (looking up from the t...
Dave Trumper starting the crux traverse photo take...
We chose to belay just after the traverse from gea...
Mike leading in some spooky fog that cleared about...
Following the crux
One of the weird holes in which tricams really do ...
Hanging at the belay
View of the right side sitting on lunch ledge
Midway on Pitch 2
Me in the toilet bowl. Photo by Loran Smith
The arch. Photo by Loran Smith
Bernardo belaying at the two bolts at the very bot...
Bernardo heading from the thread-belay to the lunc...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the arch on Standard Route from "the ...
Climbers on the crux pitch (5.7 Direct).
ben on the crux pitch
looking up from the lunch ledge
be prepared to run it out on easy slab
|Comments on Standard Route
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2008
Fun route! The most memorable part was getting munched by black flies, though. Those buggers are nasty!
|By Adam Wilcox|
From: Candia, NH
May 3, 2009
The single bolt on the last pitch is missing its nut and hanger.
|By Larry S|
Jul 7, 2010
A great intro to easy slabs. We did the whole arch rather than the quartz pocket variation, ample pro in the arch, but it can be a little mossy in spots. Experienced horrific rope drag on the crux pitch above the lunch ledge even with long runners, route seems to wander back and forth alot here. Doubles would be helpful for just that pitch. The 3 pitches following dikes to the top are like stairs.
Edit - Two and a half years later, I realize went off-route above the lunch ledge and did Slabs Direct - 5.7. This explains my rope drag problem.
|By Barrett Stetson|
Oct 4, 2010
Very fun, did the Quartz pocket and Direct variations. The biggest problem on the Direct variation is keeping the rope out of the crack after climbing up past the pin (or bolt? don't remember). It was a struggle getting it out and trying to add a redirect to keep it going back in again. I read somewhere that someone had better luck slotting a nut there just to keep it out, but that's also the nicest handhold too. Still some rope drag too, even doing the Direct variation.
The single bolt was there on the dike near the top, we ended up needing to belay at it. Although the dike is like climbing mini stairs, it was a little sketchy because there was runoff water right down the middle making it a tad slippery (there was heavy rain 2 days prior) and there is no protection for a long run out up there (maybe 100 ft?).
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 1, 2011
i had soooooo much fun with my dad last week simulclimbing standard route... we were just trying to keep moving, not shooting for time but we did it in 19 minutes which i thought was pretty cool considering that the first time we did it years ago it was probably like 5 hrs :)
|By Mike C. Robinson|
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 11, 2011
I'd vote this over The 3rd Flatiron. This route has better climbing for more pitches. The backdrop during New England Autumn is more impressive but you do get a stronger sense of exposure from The 3rd.
|By Steve Moulding|
From: New York
Jun 10, 2012
My first ever multi-pitch lead back in June 1988.
No cams back then. I recall tricams being helpful down low (little pockets where nothing else fit) and I remember the top-out pitches being completely run out. Wouldn't like to do it in the rain.
Great situation, great route!