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Matterhorn
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Alcove, The 
Horn Torn 
Standard Route 

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 1,758
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Rough topo of the Standard Route. An all-gear anc...

Description 

Start in chimney formed by detached giant flake. There is a bolt at the stance on top of the flake. Move right then up easy face to hanging 2-bolt belay. Chickenhead hike to top, belaying off tree*. EFR doesn't give any stars, but the wannabe alpinist in me likes the idea of a summit, so I like this route. Fun and easy.

*Check that, apparently the tree has gone AWOL.


Location 

Begins in obvious alcove/chimney formed by big flake at left end of the west side (closest to road). Descent: Walk off to the north (away from face and left) and you will find a good tree with rap slings. Drop down into gully here on a short rap then walk off north and west.


Protection 

A few nuts and cams are good, slings for chickenheads, draws for one bolt and belay. Easy climbing, so expect to run it out.



Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Nick Spriggshall topping out on the "Matterhorn."
Nick Spriggshall topping out on the "Matterhorn."
Chickenheady goodness!  From second pitch lead, looking down at belay.  Michele Mahal and Florencia Turco at belay ledge, top of pitch one.
Chickenheady goodness! From second pitch lead, lo...
Eric Peterson leads
Eric Peterson leads
Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 14, 2008

A fun and easy trad route with varied climbing. Mostly 5.4 or less, but expect a couple 5.6-ish moves with potential for some mild runout. A light rack with plenty of slings will do for most leaders (but a #4 Camalot protects nicely in the groove above the chimney on pitch 1, if you want to avoid a bit of runout there).

The tree up top is dead and gone. However,there is a huge boulder on the summit that can be slung with 10-12 feet of webbing.

EDIT 05-20-2012: The runout on p2 is not mild. Climbed this last month and did not enjoy the runout up to the hanging two bolt belay. Easy terrain for sure, but the fall is not inconsequential.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 21, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

a fun way to get to the top of a cool summit. you can walk off to the left once you top out (though you'll probably want use the tree to rap the small chimney--this is a different tree from the one mentioned above).

By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2012

Does anybody know who bolted this? I have thought about replacing the bolts at the first belay and finding a consensus on whether or not a bolt should be added to protect the runout and up top for the short rap but I wouldn't want to do anything without first talking to the f.a.