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 ADVANCED
Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown, 1963
Page Views: 4,997
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Looking up at the 3rd belay.
  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    On the lower South face of Rap Rock, the right hand edge forms a big slabby apron. The left side of this apron forms a huge dihedral with the main wall, which is Black Quacker. Just right of Black Quacker lie the following routes, from left-to right:P1 of The Standard Route (5.5 or 5.7, OK gear), Chiboni (5.9, pin + 3 bolts), Death Or Glory (5.10X, slab) Bender Axen (5.8 cracks) and Take To your Heals (5.9X, slab).

    The standard Route is climbed as follows:P1: (5.6 *) Climb up and right across a few slab moves to reach a groove/crack. Place a piece and go up the crack for perhaps 60' to a nice ledge at the base of a big pine tree, and belay here. You can climb the rest of the route or escape now, by climbing to the right between two grooves (5.2?) to reach the escape slabs, and them climb up chickenheads and horns to the summit (5.2?)

    P2: (5.7, *) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then climb up to a ledge. From this pevious corner, you can escape right onto the East Slabs and finish to the sumit from there, if you desire to do so, or else you can continue this pitch on past siad ledge and up to another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver to the righthand side of this and up to a belay on the ledge up and left of the top of the flake.

    P3-5: Finish as for Black Quacker or choose a place to escape to the right and onto the East Slabs to the summit.


    Protection 

    A standard set of stoppers, cams .5" to 4", small tricams + spare long slings for tying off chicken-heads and slinging horns.



    Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
    The upper pitches of Rap Rock can be well protected with slings, should you care to bother. The puzzle peice rock there can be tied off, slung, girthed, etc... Photo by Tony Bubb, 2001.
    The upper pitches of Rap Rock can be well protecte...
    Did Someone say 'Chickenheads?'  looking down on the endless sea of holds on the upper right side of Rap Rock. A true playground. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2001.
    Did Someone say 'Chickenheads?' looking down on t...
    Chickenhead hiking on running belay around pitch 4
    Chickenhead hiking on running belay around pitch 4
    The wide crack on first pitch.  Not great pro.
    The wide crack on first pitch. Not great pro.
    Beta: pitch 2 of Standard Route.
    BETA PHOTO: Beta: pitch 2 of Standard Route.
    Beta: first half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
    BETA PHOTO: Beta: first half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
    Beta: second half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
    BETA PHOTO: Beta: second half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
    Beta: pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 of Standard Route-Black Quacker link up.
    BETA PHOTO: Beta: pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 of Standard Rou...
    Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 4, 2013
    By kBobby
    From: Spokane, WA
    May 11, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This is a two-star route IF you do the Bender-Axen start. I just did the Standard Route start, and it is not very interesting. B-A is much much better. The second pitch has a 1/4" SMC bolt on it right next to a flake that will easily take gear. Watch for all of the loose blocks on the leaning column on the lower part of the second pitch. Any one of them could completely ruin your belayer's day. If you happen to have a wrench, please tighten the anchor bolts at the top of pitch 3.

    By James DeRoussel
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jun 30, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    I actually like the wide crack Standard Route start. It is a little tenuous and not great pro, but fun climbing, to me anyway. I will however, second Bobby's warning. The stack of loose blocks above the pine tree ledge are scary and should be avoided. All in all a great route.

    By Jerry Cagle
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 14, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Bobby, The Standard Route is a fine line. It has a lot of variety for a route in this part of the planet. And it may not be very difficult (start with Chiboni if you need more adrenaline), but it's in an outstanding location and offers nicely fractured cracks, face, slab, chicken-head hiking. It's one of the most "Sierra-Like" routes we've got down here... Those loose blocks are well-consolidated and easy to avoid if you need to. That's just the nature of climbing a big route (ok, it's not all that big) at altitude (or all that high - 9000'?).

    I second James' assessment of the wide crack start. It doesn't offer a lot of pro down low, but it's not extremely hard either...

    By Daryl Allan
    From: Sierra Vista, AZ
    Oct 4, 2010

    Due to a high wind situation, after p2 we short-pitched and headed more or less straight up staying left(ish) anchoring down and right from the roof over Black Quacker p3(?). We headed up and left from there traversing under the roof then up to a ledge up and left from the giant pine tree. The traverse under the roof was good clean fun.. if you get a chance to go through there, do so. The rope drag is minimal and the gear is good but watch those loose blocks just after the roof.

    Edit, ditto on James and Jerry's comments. This is was my first trip up to Rap rock and we had a great time. The goal was to get my gf some good exposure to multipitch climbing on mild ground and this was perfect. P1 has gear just where you need it. Lots of good varied climbing.

    Single bd set from .3 to 3, nuts, lots of slings.

    By NickMartel
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    Oct 5, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The move over the downward pointing flake just before the 2ed belay was 5.8. FUN ROUTE! do the Black Quacker finish from the 2ed belay.

    By Sheryl Miller
    From: Tucson, AZ
    May 9, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    we climbed this in Nov. 2011 going up Bender Axen for the 1st pitch then the rest as Standard. What an enjoyable route, higher and higher and easier as you got more exposed.

    By James DeRoussel
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Nov 2, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    Climbed this again recently after a few years, and I feel that the lower part of the second pitch warrants at least a PG-13. The protection is scarce until you reach the crack above and a fall would be unpleasant for sure. I agree that the Bender Axen start is superb.

    By Brandon Baldwin
    From: Sahuarita, AZ
    Aug 26, 2013

    On the third pitch I would reccomend belaying from some slung chicken heads at the beginning of the forth pitch instead of the hanging bolted belay. We found the hanging belay to be awkward and uncomfortable especially with two of you there trying to hang from the anchors.

    By Chris Horton
    From: Tucson AZ
    Aug 29, 2013

    ^^^^^
    I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that.

    By Alex McIntyre
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 29, 2013

    Why would you need both climbers to hang there for more than just a couple minutes?

    By Brandon Baldwin
    From: Sahuarita, AZ
    Oct 4, 2013

    Alex, this was the first outdoor climb for my partner so I was leading every pitch. The other pitches only took a minute or two to pass the rope/gear back and forth, but at the hanging belay it was closer to four or five minutes because it was awkward and painful. I climbed about 20 feet onto the fourth pitch and found a spot that felt much more comfortable. I really enjoyed the climb and will be doing it again with the modified belay. Also, I ended up climbing up the chicken heads on the fourth pitch to a finish near a small tree on the top and just barely had enough rope (60M) to throw a sling around the tree and setup my belay. With that finish an extra 20 feet would have really helped.