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Standard route 5.7 variation
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 12
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Routes in Artist's Bluff
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Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,095 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jan 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is a great way to climb the route if you plan to stretch it out to the top in one 60m pitch... Or you can stop where you like after the crux to set up a belay and still do it in 2 pitches...Why is it better this way? read on...
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Route up the face and right facing corner to the big belay ledge... The traditional way to do the variation is to belay from the pins in the vertical crack as you get to the ledge, but thats the crack you will be climbing for the next pitch so the belay will be a bit in the way...
Pitch 2: Assuming you decided to belay at the pins you will now climb up the crack above the belay over a moderate but awkward bulge and on to typical Artist's Bluff moderate and fun lower angle rock to the top...
I'm sure there must be alternate belays at the big ledge but i haven't explored the options much... If you choose to run it in to one big pitch the rope drag isn't too bad but communication can be tough with traffic noise or wind...
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Route up the face and right facing corner to the big belay ledge... The traditional way to do the variation is to belay from the pins in the vertical crack as you get to the ledge, but thats the crack you will be climbing for the next pitch so the belay will be a bit in the way...
Pitch 2: Assuming you decided to belay at the pins you will now climb up the crack above the belay over a moderate but awkward bulge and on to typical Artist's Bluff moderate and fun lower angle rock to the top...
I'm sure there must be alternate belays at the big ledge but i haven't explored the options much... If you choose to run it in to one big pitch the rope drag isn't too bad but communication can be tough with traffic noise or wind...
3 Comments