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Standard Route 5.10 variation
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Artist's Bluff
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Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,360 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jan 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I think this route should have it's own name cause its so much harder and a bit more serious than Standard's other options... I called it PG13 cause i thought it was a bit sketchy climbing over my pro above a big ledge (in my mind it was more "R") the guide i have makes no mention of sketchy climbing so perhaps i missed a protection option (but i don't think so)... With a good belayer you should be fine...
Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...
Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...
Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...
Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...
Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...
Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...
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