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Standard "Platte Rack"

Original Post
jstephens · · Denver · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10

I'm new to climbing in the Platte area and have been researching some routes I'd like to check out. I'm planning on heading up to The Castle by Wellington Lake. I'd like to hike in to the lake and then travel as lightly as I can up to the crag. My question concerns the beta for some routes up there simply states "Standard Platte Rack" as gear needed. What do you consider that to be?

Thank you for your time!

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

You're going to need a bunch of these:

11"

  • idea and photo credit to Matt Kuehl
jstephens · · Denver · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10

Maybe I could spend an evening by the lake carving some of those out...

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

Yeah the Woody11 is highly recommended!!
:-)

I say a set of stoppers, a set of TCUs, double cams to #4. That should be good. Unless you have something specific picked out that requires bigger stuff.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

I witnessed the creation of a number of "Woody's" and have seen them in action. I would definitely recommend them for all sizes from 1" to 20". Or not.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
mountainproject.com/v/10745…

The woody in action on Chrysler Crack.
jstephens · · Denver · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10
Princess Mia wrote:Yeah the Woody11 is highly recommended!! :-) I say a set of stoppers, a set of TCUs, double cams to #4. That should be good. Unless you have something specific picked out that requires bigger stuff.
I do have a few routes in mind, is anyone familiar with either of these?

mountainproject.com/v/59-cr…
mountainproject.com/v/hardg…
Nick Barczak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 75

kiloka,

go climb this:
mountainproject.com/v/centr…

Central Corner on Skinner Mountain (5.10a). The first two approach pitches aren't all that interesting (easy face climbing). However, the corner is super fun and awesome. If I remember correctly, you want 1 #4 camalot, two #3', and 3 #2s for that pitch. No gear needed for the anchor b/c you can lasso a gigantic block.

Oh yeah, its shaded all morning, so it makes for a good way to beat the heat.

jstephens · · Denver · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10
Nick Barczak wrote:kiloka, go climb this: mountainproject.com/v/centr… Central Corner on Skinner Mountain (5.10a). The first two approach pitches aren't all that interesting (easy face climbing). However, the corner is super fun and awesome. If I remember correctly, you want 1 #4 camalot, two #3', and 3 #2s for that pitch. No gear needed for the anchor b/c you can lasso a gigantic block. Oh yeah, its shaded all morning, so it makes for a good way to beat the heat.
Thanks for the heads up! That doesn't look too far from the Lake at all. Could be a nice way to start the morning!
Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

I have climbed all the routes at the Castle, so check out the guidebook for specific gear beta on each route fixedpin.com/The_South_Plat…, but if you don't want to buy the book, most of the routes at the Castle requre a double set of cams, pretty much in the .4-#3 Camalot range. You'll also want a #4 or two

As far as a "standard Platte rack" goes, it's cams to #3 Camalot and a set of nuts. It's sort of your standard rack for most climbing areas outside of the Creek etc.

jstephens · · Denver · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10
Jason Haas wrote:I have climbed all the routes at the Castle, so check out the guidebook for specific gear beta on each route fixedpin.com/The_South_Plat…, but if you don't want to buy the book, most of the routes at the Castle requre a double set of cams, pretty much in the .4-#3 Camalot range. You'll also want a #4 or two As far as a "standard Platte rack" goes, it's cams to #3 Camalot and a set of nuts. It's sort of your standard rack for most climbing areas outside of the Creek etc.
Thank you Jason! A couple of the people going this weekend had asked if there are any bolted lines anywhere near The Castle or Lake Wellington in general. I saw some stuff further up the road at Buffalo Creek. Is there anything closer than this? Thanks again!
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
kiloka wrote:any bolted lines anywhere near The Castle or Lake Wellington in general. I saw some stuff further up the road at Buffalo Creek. Is there anything closer than this? Thanks again!
no where near the above, but some fun long (safe) bolted stuff would be at Sheeprock, specifically at the Land that Time Forgot.

Two Jews Blues at Little Scraggy is all bolted.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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