Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:
North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.
South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Starts 100' up the very left edge of Escape Buttress.
P1 - head towards the black roof 30'? up some 5.8 R peg, then 5.10 R(very bad to fall pulling the roof!) on the right and smallest side of the roof, then up to double bolt anchor.
P2 - up and right at 5.9 R to a bolt in peg, then 5.11 face past a fixed wire towards the last 15-20' of the vector traverse, pull over the traverse to double bolt anchor the topo is at the ranger station.
P3 - up a 5.8 flake towards the huge roof, the traverse right underneath it at 5.9 until you pull the right side at .11+.
P4 or 5 - climb up to the lightning blot ledge.
P5 or 6 - move right around the corner from the crack to a bolt then fingers to hands to the begining of the slabbier exit pitches.
Cams: doubles.5-#2, 1-#3, 2 sets TCUs, nuts, and RPs and runners.
First, I want to give a congrads to the FA party - this is a great line and a nice addition to the other routes on the buttress. I only gave it two stars simply because the route is short (6 pitches + 600 ft of low 5th to 3rd class scrambling) by Black Canyon standards, but it's certainly on par with Comic Relief as far as quality.
That said, I found the first pitch a pretty serious outing. I'm not sure if 5.10R really captures what is entailed in climbing it. Yes, it would be bad (very, very bad) to fall off the roof moves. The only gear I had that was high enough to prevent a groundfall was three small cams stuffed behind a large (large like a piano or two) flake that flexed and gonged. My partner thought the flake probably would have held a fall; he wasn't on lead. I'd give this pitch an R/X or X rating simply because a fall off the lip of the roof could likely kill the leader and even the belayer depending on where he or she is positioned. The only sure way to test the flake's integrity would be to take the winger from standing on the lip of the roof. Volunteers?
Also, due to my future-doctor partner's handwriting when copying down the topo, we had a little confusion between 'flake' and 'face' on the crux pitch. Please ignore the assinine chalk marks on the slab to the left of the very obviously and very 5.8 flakes below the roof.
I agree w/the R/X and should have put it in but didn't think I'd really die if I fell there. The scariest thing was pulling a huge horn off the lip and making it a harder high right knee-layed-out move. Then, standing up and all the crimps had to be uncovered 'cause they had a winter of moss on them, bad pro if any here! This route was soo clean after that though!!!!
As the above mentioned "partner of Barlow", I remain strong in my assertion that the flake would have held. That gear is no worse than any of the gear used for anchors in the Fishers. Barlow, stop your quibbling.
Yeah, I wouldn't want to fall on the first pitch roof, but just boulder out the moves past the little horn. The triangle roof is cool-save some juice for the finish. We did it without using the bolted belays in keeping with the style of the rest of this buttress, but I guess the FA party thought they were necessary. We started during the heat of the afternoon knowing we were gonna roast and we did, but it was fun anyway. Good route. -miles newby