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Stand Up Comic 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wheeler, Shotwell, Lomme
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,697
Submitted By: J Brown on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start 100' up the very left edge of Escape Buttress.

P1. Head towards the black roof 30'? up some 5.8 R peg, then 5.10 R(very bad to fall pulling the roof!) on the right and smallest side of the roof, then up to double bolt anchor.

P2. Climb up and right at 5.9 R to a bolt in peg, then climb 5.11 face past a fixed wire towards the last 15-20' of the vector traverse. Pull over the traverse to double bolt anchor. The topo is at the ranger station.

P3. Go up a 5.8 flake towards the huge roof, the traverse right underneath it at 5.9 until you pull the right side at .11+.

P4 or 5. Climb up to the lightning blot ledge.

P5 or 6. Move right around the corner from the crack to a bolt, then climb fingers to hands to the beginning of the slabbier exit pitches.

Protection 

Cams: doubles 0.5-#2, 1-#3, 2 sets TCUs, nuts, RPs, and runners.


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stand up comic .11+
stand up comic .11+

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By Chris Barlow
Jun 21, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

First, I want to give a congrads to the FA party - this is a great line and a nice addition to the other routes on the buttress. I only gave it two stars simply because the route is short (6 pitches + 600 ft of low 5th to 3rd class scrambling) by Black Canyon standards, but it's certainly on par with Comic Relief as far as quality.

That said, I found the first pitch a pretty serious outing. I'm not sure if 5.10R really captures what is entailed in climbing it. Yes, it would be bad (very, very bad) to fall off the roof moves. The only gear I had that was high enough to prevent a groundfall was three small cams stuffed behind a large (large like a piano or two) flake that flexed and gonged. My partner thought the flake probably would have held a fall; he wasn't on lead. I'd give this pitch an R/X or X rating simply because a fall off the lip of the roof could likely kill the leader and even the belayer depending on where he or she is positioned. The only sure way to test the flake's integrity would be to take the winger from standing on the lip of the roof. Volunteers?

Also, due to my future-doctor partner's handwriting when copying down the topo, we had a little confusion between 'flake' and 'face' on the crux pitch. Please ignore the assinine chalk marks on the slab to the left of the very obviously and very 5.8 flakes below the roof.
By J Brown
Jul 7, 2005

I agree w/the R/X and should have put it in but didn't think I'd really die if I fell there. The scariest thing was pulling a huge horn off the lip and making it a harder high right knee-layed-out move. Then, standing up and all the crimps had to be uncovered 'cause they had a winter of moss on them, bad pro if any here! This route was soo clean after that though!!!!
By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 4, 2006

As the above mentioned "partner of Barlow", I remain strong in my assertion that the flake would have held. That gear is no worse than any of the gear used for anchors in the Fishers. Barlow, stop your quibbling.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 27, 2006

I did not do the entire route but I did do the first 2 pitches.

I thought pitch 1 was 5.10 and R but not X.

josh
By -mn
Sep 4, 2007

Yeah, I wouldn't want to fall on the first pitch roof, but just boulder out the moves past the little horn. The triangle roof is cool-save some juice for the finish. We did it without using the bolted belays in keeping with the style of the rest of this buttress, but I guess the FA party thought they were necessary. We started during the heat of the afternoon knowing we were gonna roast and we did, but it was fun anyway. Good route. -miles newby