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Stanage Edge
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Stanage Edge 


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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: adam brink on Dec 14, 2007

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Stanage Edge

Description 

Without a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English.

The Edge runs roughly north south, and has several recognised sub areas. These are reflected here:


Getting There 

Most of the minor roads east of Hathersage (to the West of Sheffield) lead up to the crag. Try the one past The Scotsman's Pack for starters.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stanage Edge:
Crescent Arete   V2     Boulder, 24 feet   Plantation Bouldering
Not To Be Taken Away   V4     Boulder, 20 feet   Plantation Bouldering
The Green Traverse   V6     Boulder, 18 feet   Plantation Bouldering
Deliverance   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   Plantation Bouldering
Brad Pit   V10     Boulder, 12 feet   Plantation Bouldering
Crack and Corner   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Black Hawk Area : Heather Buttress
Heaven Crack   5.5     Trad, 30 feet   B.A.W.s Area : Saliva Buttress
Flying Buttress   5.5     Trad, 55 feet   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Christmas Crack : Boot Buttress
Mississippi Buttress Direct   5.7     Trad, 60 feet   Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
Right Unconquerable   5.9     Trad, 45 feet   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Queersville   5.9 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Christmas Crack : Hollybush Crack Area
Left Unconquerable   5.10-     Trad, 45 feet   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Flying Buttress Direct   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
The Tippler   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Black Hawk Area : Tippler Buttress
Wuthering   5.10b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Mississippi Area : Wuthering Buttress
The Link   5.10     Trad, 65 feet   Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
The Archangel   5.10c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 66 feet   Goliath's Area : Goliath's Groove Area
Quietus   5.10+     Trad, 50 feet   The High Neb Area : High Neb Buttress
Wall End Slab Direct   5.10d R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Goliath's Area : Wall End Slab
Browse More Classics in Stanage Edge

Featured Route For Stanage Edge
Doesn't that looks like some fun

Flying Buttress Direct 5.10a/b PG13  International : United Kingdom : ... : The Flying Buttress
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy. A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Stanage Edge Slideshow Add Photo
The view from Stanage

The view from Stanage

The view from Stanage

The view from Stanage

The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.

BETA PHOTO: The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.

Stanage South Overview

BETA PHOTO: Stanage South Overview

Stanage Popular Overview

BETA PHOTO: Stanage Popular Overview

Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Unconquerables

Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...

Gritstone

Gritstone


Comments on Stanage Edge Add Comment
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By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Nov 17, 2008

The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.

By lm610
From: Nottingham
Jul 10, 2011

Read my the first part of my Stanage Review
gachieve.blogspot.com/