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DescriptionWithout a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English. Getting ThereMost of the minor roads east of Hathersage (to the West of Sheffield) lead up to the crag. Try the one past The Scotsman's Pack for starters. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stanage Edge:
Crescent Arete V2 Boulder, 24 feet Plantation Bouldering
Not To Be Taken Away V4 Boulder, 20 feet Plantation Bouldering
The Green Traverse V6 Boulder, 18 feet Plantation Bouldering
Deliverance V8 Boulder, 15 feet Plantation Bouldering
Brad Pit V10 Boulder, 12 feet Plantation Bouldering
Crack and Corner 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Black Hawk Area : Heather Buttress
Heaven Crack 5.5 Trad, 30 feet B.A.W.s Area : Saliva Buttress
Flying Buttress 5.5 Trad, 55 feet Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Christmas Crack : Boot Buttress
Mississippi Buttress Direct 5.7 Trad, 60 feet Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
Right Unconquerable 5.9 Trad, 45 feet The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Queersville 5.9 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Christmas Crack : Hollybush Crack Area
Left Unconquerable 5.10- Trad, 45 feet The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Flying Buttress Direct 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
The Tippler 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Black Hawk Area : Tippler Buttress
Wuthering 5.10b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Mississippi Area : Wuthering Buttress
The Link 5.10 Trad, 65 feet Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
The Archangel 5.10c R Trad, 1 pitch, 66 feet Goliath's Area : Goliath's Groove Area
Quietus 5.10+ Trad, 50 feet The High Neb Area : High Neb Buttress
Wall End Slab Direct 5.10d R Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Goliath's Area : Wall End Slab
Featured Route For Stanage Edge
Flying Buttress Direct 5.10a/b PG13 International : United Kingdom : ... : The Flying Buttress
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy. A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was clim...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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