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Full write-up from Marcel Dettling's Blog
In a country where everything's been done... there is still a lot to explore!
This gem is hidden in the 'backcountry', which in Switzerland means anything more than an hour approach, in the beautiful Ducantal valley behind Sertig.
The approach starts as for going to the Sertig falls. After 15 min, where normally you turn right to cross the stream and head to the falls, go left uphill and follow the path up. Stay on the trail, which curves left, then back steeply right above the Wasserfall.
You'll drop down into a stream bed, cross over and then follow this for several km up the valley. Cross back over when you are directly under the route (you'll see it!) and start the long slog uphill.
First ascencionists say 2 hr for the approach... we were 3.5! Depends definitely on snow conditions (and cardio conditioning..)
7 pitches of 70 - 80° ice. See topo for details.
Abseil the route or (potentially dangerous) walk off around the minor peak, away from Hoch Ducan.
No fixed gear, although this has become a classic already and may have installed anchors soon.
Avalanche gear strongly recommended.
On the approach, entering the valley. Hoch Ducan l...
View of Stampfenstrasse from the final approach.
This should end well.... navigating stream crossin...