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Type:  Ice, 7 pitches, 850', Grade IV
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: M. Dettling & C. Birrer 2011
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Feb 13, 2013

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View of Stampfenstrasse from the final approach.


Full write-up from Marcel Dettling's Blog

In a country where everything's been done... there is still a lot to explore!

This gem is hidden in the 'backcountry', which in Switzerland means anything more than an hour approach, in the beautiful Ducantal valley behind Sertig.

The approach starts as for going to the Sertig falls. After 15 min, where normally you turn right to cross the stream and head to the falls, go left uphill and follow the path up. Stay on the trail, which curves left, then back steeply right above the Wasserfall.
You'll drop down into a stream bed, cross over and then follow this for several km up the valley. Cross back over when you are directly under the route (you'll see it!) and start the long slog uphill.

First ascencionists say 2 hr for the approach... we were 3.5! Depends definitely on snow conditions (and cardio conditioning..)

7 pitches of 70 - 80° ice. See topo for details.

Abseil the route or (potentially dangerous) walk off around the minor peak, away from Hoch Ducan.


46.68631, 9.8419


No fixed gear, although this has become a classic already and may have installed anchors soon.

Avalanche gear strongly recommended.

Photos of Stampfetenstrasse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From
Rock Climbing Photo: On the approach, entering the valley. Hoch Ducan l...
On the approach, entering the valley. Hoch Ducan l...
Rock Climbing Photo: This should end well.... navigating stream crossin...
This should end well.... navigating stream crossin...

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