Starting the crux of Stampede! in Cochise Strongho...
A fully bolted route with quality rock. Seven pitches, all of which are at least 5.10a.
[EDIT 1/2/14] Apparently Bob Kerry's Description was insufficient. It has been five years this things has been posted and nobody seemed to mention that to me. My bad, here is a pitch by pitch description:
Rack: Quickdraws only.
Pitch 1 (5.11-, 100): Clip two bolts, then pull a difficult (10+) roof to establish yourself on the slab. Continue up the slab on increasingly difficult moves to an anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.11-, 60): Traverse left, clipping two bolts. Pull around the arκte (11-), then continue up and left to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10, 110): Climb up and left where you will encounter a long reach move near the third bolt (10c). The route arcs back to the right for airy, exposed climbing to the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10-, 140): Work through 5.10- climbing past three bolts, after which the climbing eases off on more runout terrain. Belay at a ledge below and to the left of a large pine tree.
Pitch 5 (5.10, 130): Climb up and slightly left to a crux near the 5th bolt (10c). The climbing eases off and continues to a two bolt anchor at the right side of a large ledge. Transfer the belay left: Walk left along the ledge a total of 160. Youll pass by a tree at about 100 and a two bolt anchor 30 feet beyond the tree. Your anchor is the second two bolt anchor 30 past the first one.
Pitch 6 (10+/11-, 100): Climb the chossy looking face (10b) and work up more slab (10+/11-) to a two bolt anchor next to a shrub. Another anchor is directly left on the other side of the shrub, an easy 50 pitch is possible here to escape to the top. Cams from 2-4 are needed for the anchor if you exit this way.
Pitch 7 (5.10+, 50): Climb the shallow trough past three bolts to the top. [/EDIT]
Starts in the gully on the far right side of the Sheepshead. The start of the climb has a 10c roof/bulge protected by two bolts. Look for a right-angling line of bolts headed up a 100' slab.
See the link to Kerry's online guide (above) for further details.
All bolts, all cruxes well-protected. Even so, you should have a significant amount of multipitch experience before attempting this route. Due to the wandery nature of this route, retreat would be difficult after the first pitch, even with two ropes.
I finally got on it last weekend; wonderful and the crux was fairly easy 11. I had been put off by the talk of runouts and there were a few but on easy rock. The first and third pitches were great, although the first got your slab work going fast; the second and crux pitch was also good and airy.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Mar 1, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
this climb is solid 11a, and awesome.
EDIT at the end of pitch 5 you will find yourself on a giant ledge. directly in front of you, on the far right side of the ledge, there is a line of bolts going up a cleft in the rock. unless you want to participate in a cleaning effort (which you may) i would not suggest following this line of bolts as the rock is crumbly and a little scary toward the top.
this pitch goes at about 11a and deposits you on the right side of the formation, where you can either scramble left up to the summit or rap off to the right.
again, i would suggest you simply go all the way to the left side of the ledge and finish on the last 2 pitches of stampede, which are of the highest quality.
By Mike From: Phoenix Jul 9, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
To add to Jon's comments above...
We followed the bolts in the right side cleft. It was an OK pitch, but is still a bit crumbly. The benefit of this is that with one rappel and a short bit of scrambling you can be at your packs much quicker & easier than if you top out.
If you have never been to the top or done any of the left-side finishes, then I would recommend going that route. However, if you have already summited The Sheepshead on multiple occasions and have already done some of the left-side finishes, then I recommend the direct finish and it's easier descent.
The location of this route is obvious: It begins in the gully on the right side of Sheepshead on a beautiful golden brown, south-facing slab. This slab is directly opposite the start of Sheep Thrills (the dike of Sheep Thrills, which is on the formation right of Sheepshead, is very obvious on the approach). Steep scrambling up the gully leads to the start, and two bolts up a steep weakness gain the slab itself.
We topped out via the grainy/loose direct finish without traversing the massive ledge system. The belay at the top of this pitch is off a single bolt, with a second bolt protecting a final step-across move nearby (this anchor setup is sensible). Rapping the unknown route right of Stampede (listed in the database) with a single 70m rope was fast and easy:
From the belay, we looked down below us and noticed a cairn atop a small buttress at the edge of the face... 30 seconds of easy scrambling leads to an exposed stance on the outside face of this buttress and an anchor equipped for rappel.
1: Rap to an anchor on big ledge. 2: Can't remember this one but it may have been a short rap to a semi-hanging stance. 3: Rap to an anchor climber's left of a big tree on a huge ledge. 4: Rap to an anchor at a stance just underneath, and hidden by, a massive dead log wedged in the gully system. 5: Rap into the gully to a point 50' from the start of Stampede.