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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Reamin' T 
Flat Battery T,TR 
Hotwire T 
Jump Start T,TR 
Lieback Crack T 
Little Spark T,TR 
Magnet T,TR 
Mechanic, The T 
Power Smart T,TR 
Stairway T,TR 
Thriller Off the Void T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stairway 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Coope, Karl Winter - 1962
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Mark van Eijk on Sep 4, 2011

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Description 

Very engaging and enjoyable climbing on edges and crimps. This route is impressively vertical, sequencey, and sustained for such a moderate grade, especially considering the area. Especially suitable for new climbers making the transition from the gym to the outdoors.

Location 

Stairway is located on the steep north wall of the sugarloaf, next to the backside trail to the top. Begin by scrambling up the broken slab at the base of the gulley before traversing left and up on to fun edges to a large jug. Continue up and left, then right to top out.

Protection 

I've yet to see someone lead this route, difficult and sparse placements would make it an adventurous outing. There are a few opportunities for small nuts and TCUS near the midpoint, but these would be of little help if you fell from the last moves. Most set an anchor at the base of the hydro tower and toprope. There are no anchor bolts, bring long slings and/or a cordellette.


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