Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aggro Monk S 
Black Uhuru S 
Blo Jo Jono S 
Boulder Hypocricy S 
Churning in the Cheese S 
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 
Form, The S 
Function, The S 
Houses of the Holy S 
I Like It Black S 
King Coral S 
La Primera Vez S 
Laser Gods S 
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 
Makadon S 
Mono Jono S 
Nyorgai S 
Quiet Time S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
Swanktofy Yourself S 
Under the Hand S 
Under the Milky Way S 
Unknown S 
Up Your Booty Crack S 

Stairway to Heaven 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sometimes words have two meanings. It's called a ...

Description 

If only this route were as long as the song. The climbing is great while it lasts, but unfortunately it's over well before the guitar solo.

Begin a bit left of the bolt line, next to an old maid yammering about glitter. Make non-trivial moves up and right to a good stance below the bulge, near a confusing sign.

Make big reaches over the bulge, ultimately reaching some good pockets just over the bulge. Try not to be distracted by the singing birds.

Think about it.

Try not to sob when you discover how small and slopey the holds on the slab are. Work up desperately to the low anchor and some smoky trees.

No more rock, so you'll have to hum the rest while you thread the anchor...piper will lead us...echo with laughter...May queen...yes there are two paths....

Location 

Fifth route from the right side of the Heaven Wall, or 2nd route right of a right-facing dihedral.

...your head is humming and it won't go....

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 BA.
...Dear Lady, can you hear the wind blow....


Comments on Stairway to Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -