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Stairway to Heaven 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Fortner 1977
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: BHMBen on Jun 7, 2009
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Description 

Climb runout ground to the first bolt in the water streak, then further through blank, balancy terrain and more gear to easy ground. Traverse right to the Afternoon Delight anchors. (Optional pitch goes up and exits right under the second overhang.)


Location 

The obvious, greasy water streak 20' left of the flake.


Protection 

bolt, TCUs, tricams, stoppers, a #1 C4 for a directional at the top.



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By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 5, 2011

This route is pretty serious. If you don't clip the chicken bolt on Variations, you would definitely die/ be maimed if you fell at the cruxy move before the bolt.

By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Dec 4, 2011

JW is right. Following the original route without the Variations bolt offers 5.7R/X to the first bolt, then a 5.9 crux, then some gear out left, followed by another long runout to easier ground.