Climb runout ground to the first bolt in the water streak, then further through blank, balancy terrain and more gear to easy ground. Traverse right to the Afternoon Delight anchors. (Optional pitch goes up and exits right under the second overhang.)
The obvious, greasy water streak 20' left of the flake.
bolt, TCUs, tricams, stoppers, a #1 C4 for a directional at the top.
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 5, 2011
This route is pretty serious. If you don't clip the chicken bolt on Variations, you would definitely die/ be maimed if you fell at the cruxy move before the bolt.
From: NE, GA
Dec 4, 2011
JW is right. Following the original route without the Variations bolt offers 5.7R/X to the first bolt, then a 5.9 crux, then some gear out left, followed by another long runout to easier ground.