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> Stairway to Heaven
Stairway to Heaven
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 17
votes
Routes in Stairway to Heaven
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Earwig S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Frog Kisser S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Good Ship Lollipop S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Heavenly Traverse (Bagels and Shmear) V2 5+ |
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Knee Deep in Skin Flakes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Matter of Interest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Someone's in the Kitchen with Dina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stairway Sport Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,316 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Hestetune on Jul 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
The crux comes early with the overhanging hand crack. Once you get past this pull yourself into the batshit .8 or so squeeze chimney. There is an old bolt (no hanger) somewhere in there. It is a pretty cool position in this part as there is nothing beneath you. The 'stairway' part is fairly mellow at .8 or .9. Here we chose to keep traversing, but you should probably pull the roof. It looks much harder and more fun. Belay and walk off or down-climb to the chain anchors below.
Note: We might've done a variation to the tradition route by traversing under the final roof. It seemed like the natural line at the time.
Overall, it is a fun worthwhile climb. Be warned, this route will have more loose rock than its neighbors.
Note: We might've done a variation to the tradition route by traversing under the final roof. It seemed like the natural line at the time.
Overall, it is a fun worthwhile climb. Be warned, this route will have more loose rock than its neighbors.
Protection
There is a manky bolt (no hanger) in the chimney and bolt for an anchor at the belay on top. Bring doubles of your widest, although protection in the chimney is mostly psychological. You can get a great #2 at the top of the chimney.
5/13/2020 - From the comments and rumors, there have been bolts added to the stairway.
5/13/2020 - From the comments and rumors, there have been bolts added to the stairway.
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