Staircase 5.4
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.4 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | greg k on Dec 13, 2010 |
| |
Me climbing the Staircase.
Photo by Michelle Huan...
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Description This is/has been/will be the most popular climb at the Dragon Cave. On almost any decent weekend, a school group will be doing laps on it. If you do get the opportunity to get on it, it's a straightforward romp up big features to the top of the first cliff you come upon from the north parking area. It protects well, has a few fun moves in it, and tops out to a beautiful and commanding view of the coastline. This makes for a perfect first climb, or to take an uninitiated friend up, or a free solo warmup... just know that others are thinking the same. Now has two glue-in bolts for top-rope and rappel.
Location Right-angling weakness on the east face of School Gate. Just to the right of the overhang of Surprise Crack.
Protection Gear to #3.
2-bolt anchor
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.4
| First climb on my first day at the Dong. The girl who I asked to belay said, with a smirk, "Ah, you're a traditional climber." Watched Matt free solo it - up and down in about five minutes. I'm assuming that included a four-minute view of the scenery.
As for gear, you can place as much or as little as you want, but good placements abound, up to a #3. It can be tricky cleaning your gear if nobody is following, as the rap bolts are located a good three meters from the climbing line. |
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.4
| There are now two bolts at the top. |
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