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 ADVANCED
(1) School Gate
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Staircase 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: greg k on Dec 13, 2010
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Me climbing the Staircase.

Photo by Michelle Huan...

Description 

This is/has been/will be the most popular climb at the Dragon Cave. On almost any decent weekend, a school group will be doing laps on it. If you do get the opportunity to get on it, it's a straightforward romp up big features to the top of the first cliff you come upon from the north parking area. It protects well, has a few fun moves in it, and tops out to a beautiful and commanding view of the coastline. This makes for a perfect first climb, or to take an uninitiated friend up, or a free solo warmup... just know that others are thinking the same. Now has two glue-in bolts for top-rope and rappel.


Location 

Right-angling weakness on the east face of School Gate. Just to the right of the overhang of Surprise Crack.


Protection 

Gear to #3.
2-bolt anchor



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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

First climb on my first day at the Dong. The girl who I asked to belay said, with a smirk, "Ah, you're a traditional climber." Watched Matt free solo it - up and down in about five minutes. I'm assuming that included a four-minute view of the scenery.

As for gear, you can place as much or as little as you want, but good placements abound, up to a #3. It can be tricky cleaning your gear if nobody is following, as the rap bolts are located a good three meters from the climbing line.

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

There are now two bolts at the top.