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 ADVANCED
Aspen Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Analog Analogy T,S 
Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) T 
Digital Dilemma S 
Gila Monster S 
Staircase to the Patio T 
Unknown S 
Unnamed Crack Left of Zorro T 
Zorro T 

Staircase to the Patio 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Zack Baker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Zack Baker on Oct 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Staircase to the patio, left of Digital Dilemma. ...

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Appearing as if it might be quite trivial and suitable only for your aged auntie, it turns out to be somewhat challenging due to the unbalanced nature of the layback/staircase combo and small roof.

The larger story is that I was looking for easy climbs for Graduation Climb, and the staircase made it seem initially appealing. Seconding, and second ascent, by Ron Morgan who claimed "5.10! The hardest climb I've ever attempted!" Without further opinions, I'm calling it 5.9 for now.

Location 

Left of Digital Dilemma, before the big slanted chimney/crack, you will find an obvious layback that seems to have a staircase built in for your feet.

Protection 

2" for the initial layback, 3" for the roof, and small to 0.3 for the remainder face/thin crack climbing. Use the fixed anchors for Digital Dilemma.


Comments on Staircase to the Patio Add Comment
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By Fritz Devendorf
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Jun 20, 2012

Yes I believe the same climb as Serendipity (see the attached photo
Jim Olsen at the base of Serendipity
Jim Olsen at the base of Serendipity
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 23, 2013

Agree. Same start as Blue Boy (aka Serendipity), including its crux. Then I suspect STTP finishes on either Analog Analogy or Digital Dilemma. I believe that the 5.9 rating of STTP comes from one of those two because the crux of Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) is attention getting but not 5.9 I think.