We top roped this route from gear high in the corner at the end of Diagonal Finger Crack. We tensioned right to clip the top bolt. After an initial move on the arete, climb on the right side using the arete and some rotten flakes (first bolt is left of the arete), then switch to the left side. Climb past a big horizontal crack (gear) to the second bolt where there is a thin 5.9 move.
After toproping this I thought maybe I could lead it despite the S rating. The hard moves are about even with the first bolt but on the other side of the arete. It would be close to a ground fall as you get to the horizontal crack. The first move is pretty hard, and you could fall down to the right off of the start ledge, but there is gear, maybe hard to place, left of the start at the top of the inside corner.
2 bolts, small gear for start, big cam(?) between 1st and 2nd bolt.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
The only part of the route I thought had danger to it was the beginning until a meter or two up at the horizontal, which does not immediately accept gear, nor is it a great hold. The climbing and gear remain insecure until one is established in stems with hands at the horizontal and you can work in an Alien or large Ballnut. After that, no problem for risks....
As well, I climbed the route to the left and as said by Jason, avoided alost all of the bad rock mentioned by Ivan and Jason as such. Perhaps this avoidance is also why I did not give the route a bomb rating- the rock was good in my experience.