Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mason Frichette and Paul Reid, 1977?
Page Views: 1,438 total · 6/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Sep 29, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A sweet, clandestine route. Start with That's Weak, and then move the belay over to the chain anchor on the right when you get to the ledge. You are now underneath Trash it and Move on, also an excellent route.

However, you as "trad climber" are headed up and right into the corner, capped by a roof. I have always traversed right first and then headed up to the roof. The pro is not great here, boldness is required, but the climbing is not too hard. It also looks possible to diagonal up and right from the belay, but this looks harder and dicier. Good judgment is required here.

Get up to the roof and plug some good gear in. The gear is great from here on out. Turn the roof on the left and start jamming up an increasingly steep crack into a small corner. Get to the top of the corner and appreciate the awesome foot holds that nature has provided for you. Figure out how to place gear in a crack just to your right, the one you can't really see that well, and then climb it, wishing that nature had provided footholds here as well. (Crux). Keep going to the chain anchor. Two rappels takes you to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Selection of pro from stoppers to cams up to blue Camalot, including TCUs or Aliens.

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