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Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T,S 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Stage Fright 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mason Frichette and Paul Reid, 1977?
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Sep 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Ivan gets into the tricky, strenuous lieback moves...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A sweet, clandestine route. Start with That's Weak, and then move the belay over to the chain anchor on the right when you get to the ledge. You are now underneath Trash it and Move on, also an excellent route.

However, you as "trad climber" are headed up and right into the corner, capped by a roof. I have always traversed right first and then headed up to the roof. The pro is not great here, boldness is required, but the climbing is not too hard. It also looks possible to diagonal up and right from the belay, but this looks harder and dicier. Good judgment is required here.

Get up to the roof and plug some good gear in. The gear is great from here on out. Turn the roof on the left and start jamming up an increasingly steep crack into a small corner. Get to the top of the corner and appreciate the awesome foot holds that nature has provided for you. Figure out how to place gear in a crack just to your right, the one you can't really see that well, and then climb it, wishing that nature had provided footholds here as well. (Crux). Keep going to the chain anchor. Two rappels takes you to the ground.


Protection 

Selection of pro from stoppers to cams up to blue Camalot, including TCUs or Aliens.



Photos of Stage Fright Slideshow Add Photo
Ivan has no butterflies cruising the section marked as the 11a crux on the topo. From the ground, this arching roof looks like an obvious undercling. But we traversed into the cracks that gain the corner much lower.
Ivan has no butterflies cruising the section marke...
The easy terrain is high-angle and fun before the climb gets down to business higher up. From here, the climb moves right under the roof, and then traverses back into the cracks up corner. I found the corner harder than it looks, exciting 5.9 or maybe 5.10.
The easy terrain is high-angle and fun before the ...
Comments on Stage Fright Add Comment
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By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 1, 2002

I diagonaled directly to the roof, the option you described. I don't know if it's harder than stepping right and going straight up, but it was fairly run-out. In the end, we felt it was sort of silly, though -- better to just follow the easiest ground to the roof, where the real action starts. Great climb, all in all, with the crux near the top, where it should be.

By stephen sangdahl
Oct 2, 2002

This is an excellant pitch!!! Save the #1 Friend for the crux. I believe Dan Hare was with Mason F. on the F.A.

By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2004

Great pitch!Nearly 3 stars. Routefinding at the crux is challenging. My belayer, who had done the route before, remembered going left at the crux along the continuation of the crack. This variation looks like it takes gear at first, but then turns into scarey looking slab climbing. When I got up there, traversing into the right crack (as described above) seemed the more logical, and safer, way to go. So after much confusion and hesitation I went that way. The crux takes very good stoppers as well as the #1 sized cam.

By aPcW
Jul 21, 2007

FA: Mason Frichette and Paul Reid, 1977.

By Bret Ruckman
Aug 28, 2008

The other day I led the thrilling left finish (that Joe mentioned above), thinking that was the normal route. It was probably mid-5.11 and kind of spicy, but high quality.

By slim
Administrator
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Nice job, Brett. I thought that straight up at the top felt tough and definitely insecure. Spent a lot of time looking, groping, and clenching my teeth.