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Stag Party 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Robbins, Mark Bennett: 1987
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
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On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Route Description 

Pitch 1: Climb 70' up a near vertical crack 10' right of Nazi Love Slaves past a piton. Belay on same ledge as Nazi Love Slaves.
Pitch 2: Traverse 30' left on a 4th Class slab. Climb 20' up a 5.10R groove. Diagonal right for 80' to belay at a 2-bolt station directly above previous belay stance.
Pitch 3: Climb 20' up a thin crack. Traverse 10' left to an arete. Climb the low-angle 5.10 arete for another 100'. Belay at a suspect bolt & small tree.


Approach 

Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.


Protection 

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24"). Emphasize small sizes.


Descent 

I scrambled down the north side.



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By tenesmus
Nov 9, 2007

This also looks kinda cool - is it thin slab cracking, or is it more vertical? Might make a nice afternoon between the two of them. Any info would be appreciated.

By tenesmus
Nov 23, 2007

Thanks TC - this sounds like it will be worth the hike.